WIT Life #74: Japan Society Food Forum
Anecdote Article, Article/Journalism, Japan Trends, Translating/Interpreting, WIT Life 
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WITLife is a periodic series written by professional Writer/Interpreter/Translator Stacy Smith (Kumamoto-ken, 2000-03). She starts her day by watching Fujisankei’s newscast in Japanese, and here she shares some of the interesting tidbits and trends together with her own observations.
Last night I went to an event at Japan Society entitled “Wasabi on a Hot Dog?” which discussed the incorporation of Japanese ingredients and cooking styles into non-Japanese food. The speakers were Michael Anthony, executive chef of Gramercy Tavern, and Craig Koketsu, Executive Chef at Park Avenue Autumn/Winter, and the discussion was moderated by NYT Dining section reporter Julia Moskin. They both spoke of the importance of seasonality as a Japanese concept that they have introduced, which is said to be revolutionary but really is at the root of all cooking. It was interesting to hear about Anthony’s time training with a female chef at a French bistro in Tokyo, and of Koketsu growing up in California as a third-generation Japanese-American and how this has affected his work.
However, by far the greatest contribution of the evening was the off the cuff remarksfrom Michael Romano, Executive Owner/Partner of Union Square Cafe, who was part of the audience. He described his involvement with launching Union Square Tokyo at the newly opened Midtown in 2007, and some of the adjustments that had to be made at the time. For example, the signature dish of the New York restaurant was a tuna filet mignon with ginger and other flavors, served with wasabi mashed potatoes. They thought this Japanesque meal would be a sure hit in Tokyo, but it flopped. J
apanese found the tuna steak to be too large, and the combination of wasabi and mashed potatoes odd. Romano realized the need for a a signature dish of its own for Tokyo, and decided to tweak what they had. They ended up creating an Italian style tuna with garlic and olive oil and served with garlic chips, and it has been a huge hit! His philosophy for the Tokyo location has been not to replicate the original Union Square, but to be faithful to it in spirit.
Other anecdotes related to being respectful of cultural expectations. Romano explained that in New York guests were greeted with a warm welcome that had the feeling of a hug, but that this was not the appropriate approach for Japanese clientele such as salarymen, so that balance had to be found. Also, Romano was not aware of the sending off of customers that is common in Japan. He would greet guests when they arrived, but was surprised when staff searched for him to say goodbye when that same customer was leaving. In accordance with Japanese tradition and as a sign of mutual respect, Romano would walk them to the door and wave until he could no longer see them. He admitted that this took getting used to, as it involved accompanying the guest down the long corridor that led to the exit.
One other point Romano made was that in New York they would determine what the fish of the day would be, but that in Tokyo the chef told him that this was not possible. When he asked why, the chef explained that his supplier would be bringing him the fish that was the freshest and at its best, but until it arrived he wasn’t sure what he would be serving that day. Fascinating stuff and I kept wanting Romano to get up and join the panel so we could hear more cross-cultural stories!
In entertainment news, prominent Japanese actor Hiroyuki Sanada joined the cast of Lost last night for the final season. I happened to turn the show on midway through and was surprised to hear someone speaking Japanese! Not quite sure exactly what his character’s relationship is to the island, but he seems to be an authority figure who Jack and the others look to for answers. He had an interpreter, but when Hurley pointed out that what he was saying wasn’t being interpreted and suspected that he understood English, Sanada’s character responded with, “I don’t like the way English tastes on my tongue.” Classic line that could not be delivered better than by the Twilight Samurai (Tasosgare Seibei).
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