New submissions always welcome. Just e-mail it to Leah at jetwit [at] jetwit.com.

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Broccoli Lover Learns to BBQ

Part 2

by Clara Solomon (CIR, Nichinan-cho, Tottori-ken; 1999-2001), the Director of Counseling & Career Development at the Office of Career Services at New York University School of Law. She previously worked for the Japan External Trade Organization, specializing in trade relations between Japan and Latin America.  She lives in Queens with her husband and twin daughters.

Read Part 1 here.

Living in a small farming community has a lot of advantages, I soon learned. For example, I was at the town festival in August shortly after arriving, and casually mentioned to one of my farmer neighbors that I liked sweet corn. I woke up the next day to find about 15 ears of freshly-picked sweet corn on my doorstep. Even when I didn’t particularly like something, I would often find that a kind neighbor, perhaps worried about my over-consumption of broccoli, had left bushels of it at my front door. I guess they’d heard that Americans eat a lot, because they would leave bags stuffed with enough eggplant, cabbage, and carrots to feed a small army. (Why, I often wondered, had I not moved to rural Tuscany, where I could have gotten donations of sun-ripened tomatoes, basil, and fresh bufala mozzarella?).

So, to the cookbooks I turned. I can confidently say that Mark Bittman is a god – did you know that his book lists not one, not two, but nineteen different recipes for eggplant! Before moving to Nichinan-cho, I’d hated eggplant, but with the bounty at my doorstep, I learned to love it – curried, roasted, fried, parmesan-ed. I tried it all until I found my favorite recipes. Another benefit to living in a small town is that there isn’t much else to do, so I had ample time to experiment in my kitchen. Even the TV options were limited, as I really only got about 4 channels reliably, two of which were NHK. (And, yes, I’ll admit it now, there were some home-sick moments in mid-winter, when I rushed home after work to catch the NHK broadcast of “Sabrina the Teenage Witch” just to watch something in English).

I cooked. And cooked and cooked and cooked. I became more ambitious, venturing into beef bourguignon (or as close to it as one could get in rural Japan) and triple-layer chocolate cake (also a challenge when your oven is the size of a microwave). Of course, even with an amazing recipe for eggplant Parmesan (with home-made tomato sauce, naturally), one small gaijin girl cannot possibly consume 15 eggplants, 3 cabbages, and a pound of carrots alone, especially not if she hopes to stay “small.” (Small being, in the land of 4’10” women, a relative term.) What to do?

I began inviting people over. I didn’t really know anyone, but there weren’t really that many people under the age of 40 to choose from, so I went ahead and invited all of them. Thus the beginning of the yaki-niku parties.

Well, it wasn’t actually the beginning of my infamous barbecues. Not quite yet. You see, although I was fluent in Japanese, I hadn’t yet gained the trust of my co-workers. Most of whom were skeptical about house parties with the broccoli-loving American. At first, only one person accepted my invitations, and I knew enough about life in small town Japan to know that it would be a very bad idea if “he” and I had dinner together alone in my house. The gossip would be never ending. So I kept trying to invite people over with different menu items. One night was beef stew, the next night was tacos, another night was cake and cookies. Not one broccoli dish on offer, and still very few takers.

In the end, my co-workers were swayed by the promise of beef. My veranda truly was a sight to behold. Big enough for a large grill, cooler for drinks, and at least ten chairs, it was a barbecue lover’s dream come true. My coworkers (all of whom knew where I lived, naturally) must have been waiting for me to figure this out, because they jumped at the invitation when I invited them over for yaki niku. Or maybe it was because I was finally inviting them for Japanese-style food, rather than all of that weird American stuff I kept offering. Either way, they showed up for that first party and had a blast, eating, drinking, and telling jokes until well into the night. It was such a joy to have people over, eating food I had prepared, and enjoying themselves, that I resolved then and there to have more yaki niku parties at my house. Like, every week if I could.

Eventually, I gained a reputation as a good hostess, and more people accepted my dinner invitations. I became proficient in Japanese drinking games, and they became fluent in singing “99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall.” My Japanese neighbors and co-workers grew comfortable with me, even bringing dishes to share, sometimes experimenting with new recipes of their own. I got them to try non-Japanese dishes, while they introduced me to new Japanese ingredients and recipes. We became friends over food, and some of my colleagues became close enough that they would occasionally just show up unannounced at my door on a Friday night with all the fixin’s for a yaki-niku beef bonanza on my veranda (mini-keg included!).

Through our shared meals, we developed a close bond, discussing frustrations and upsets, hopes and dreams. This was the life I had envisioned for myself when I picked up that bunch of broccoli in Paseo on my first day in town. Little did I know that I would need to give up the healthy, responsible food and branch into the art of Japanese barbecue to get me there. While I was busy putting on the façade of a confident, independent, broccoli-eating adult, I learned that all it took was to open myself up to new foods, new ideas, and lots of friends to become who I really wanted to be.

While working on a translation about osechi ryôri, the Japanese New Year’s meal, today, I came across a passage about how the meal is prepared in advance of the holidays to avoid using the cooking fire. From a practical standpoint, not having to cook while one’s extended family is visiting gives the primary household cook a chance to relax and spend time with the family. The other reason given is that using the kitchen fire during the year-end period makes Kôjin (荒神) the Fire God angry.

CLICK HERE to read the full post.

New submissions always welcome. Just e-mail it to Leah at jetwit [at] jetwit.com.

*****

Broccoli Lover Learns to BBQ

Part 1

by Clara Solomon (CIR, Nichinan-cho, Tottori-ken; 1999-2001), the Director of Counseling & Career Development at the Office of Career Services at New York University School of Law. She previously worked for the Japan External Trade Organization, specializing in trade relations between Japan and Latin America.  She lives in Queens with her husband and twin daughters.

Many of my experiences in Japan are tied up in the experience of food and cooking. Sure, I have my fill of the standard repertoire of “how many weird things will the American try?” My favorite of those is the night I was out at a new inn in my town, one that specialized in fresh, local food, with a “high end rustic” slant. So, I’m out with some co-workers enjoying a truly delicious meal, when they put a plate of glistening, dark red sashimi before me and say “to-rai, to-rai” (try, try). I wasn’t quite sure what this fish was, it was darker red than any tuna I’d ever seen, so dark it was almost purple, or black. There were thick veins of white fatty meat running through each piece – it almost looked like raw beef, though I could tell from the smell and texture that it was fish. “What is this?” I innocently asked, knowing full well that they wouldn’t tell me until I ate it. This game was a favorite of my colleagues, and they again said “to-rai.” So, I tried it. The minute I popped the full piece in my mouth, the entire table burst out with giggles and choruses of “Greeenpeesu! Greenpeesu!” Yes, Greenpeace. Turns out, I was eating endangered whale, the fishing and eating of which Japan has long been at odds with environmental groups like Greenpeace over (not to mention UN conventions, and the opinion of much of the rest of the world, minus Norway and the Inuit). How was it, you ask? Honestly, not that memorable. For one, it was extremely cold, indicating that it had probably been frozen and shipped to my town from somewhere further south (so much for eating local). For two, I think I would have rather had a piece of fatty tuna, whose rich, buttery flavor far outshone this piece of whale.

I could go on for pages regaling you with stories about the strange things I was given to eat, and the strange situations in which I found myself eating them (wild boar on live TV, anyone?). But, when I think back to the essence of my eating, drinking and cooking in Japan, those are only the warm up acts, the comedy routines that politicians put into the beginning of their stump speeches to play to the base and entice the crowds to stick around for the meat and potatoes (not that I had a lot of meat and potatoes in Japan…). My story of food in Japan is one of cooking and sharing, and gaining not only friends, but also self confidence in the process. You see, I lived in a small town of about 6,000 people nestled in the mountains of Western Honshu. While the town had a sprinkling of ramen shops, bars, and the above-mentioned high-end inn, my choices for eating out were, in actuality, pretty limited.

Fortunately, I had always enjoyed cooking, and had the foresight to ship myself a copy of Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything, so I was prepared to cook, well, everything. Or, so I thought. But this was, after all, my first time actually living alone and really fending for myself. And boy was I living alone, my JET home institution had graciously arranged for me a 3-bedroom, two-story house, equipped with a fully planted garden and a view of a rice paddy out of my bedroom window. A native of the NYC metro-area, I had never seen a potato plant until someone came in from wandering around my garden at one of my infamous yaki-niku barbecue parties holding a fistful of potatoes that he had apparently pulled up right outside my back door – who knew? We washed and boiled them and had a lovely potato salad with our bbq.

But, I’m getting ahead of myself. In the first day that I arrived in my little town in Japan, I hadn’t quite envisioned yaki-niku parties on my veranda. Really, I hadn’t even registered that I had a veranda big enough for a barbecue grill. My supervisor and the local junior high English teacher, Naomi-sensei, met me at the airport, dropped my bags off at my new house, and took me right to the grocery store to buy some food. I was still reeling from the hour-long drive home from the airport, where we went deeper and deeper into the mountains, and further and further from the things I generally took for granted, like street lights.

As we drove into the little valley, and I saw my town nestled along the banks of the Hino River for the first time, I’d love to be able to say that I was instantly smitten, charmed by the small-town feel, the sun glinting off the river, the old ladies chatting in the streets, and the children catching dragonflies in the breeze. In fact, however, I was struggling to hold down a mounting wave of panic. I mean, I was born in Brooklyn for goodness sake. Sure, I’d spent summers on my grandparents’ farm in Maine, and had gone on some camping trips in the back-woods of Minnesota, but those were vacations, not long-term living arrangements.

So I was blinking back tears as I stepped into the grocery store with Naomi-sensei. At least the town had a grocery store, I thought to myself. Naomi-sensei was standing by my side as I perused the aisles of the Paseo for the fist time that day. I’d never had someone watch me shop for groceries before, and I was instantly conscious that I should be buying things that made me look like the responsible adult I was trying to pass myself off to be. Right. Well, responsible people eat vegetables, so I picked up some broccoli. At a loss for where to go from there, I pushed my mini-cart aimlessly around the store, and Naomi-sensei gently guided me towards the rice display. Right, in Japan, we eat rice – good thing I didn’t go for the bread aisle, or I would have never heard the end of it when the junior high English class got to the “Which do you like, rice or bread?” section of the textbook.

I don’t remember much of the rest of that shopping trip, but when I went to try to make myself dinner that night, I discovered that I had bought only four things: milk, eggs, rice, and broccoli. Broccoli omelets were my sole sustenance until I worked up the nerve to go back to Paseo for some reinforcements. By that time, however, I had already earned a reputation as Ms. Broccoli. Even two years later, after I had hosted countless dinner parties, and even taught some cooking classes at the local community center, people would stop my in the street or the store, and say “Ah, Kurara-san, I heard you like broccoli!” (Better than “I heard you like Doritos” or “I heard you like Colt 45,” I suppose, but still a strange thing to be confronted with on a regular basis.)

Stay tuned for Part 2!

New submissions always welcome. Just e-mail it to Leah at jetwit [at] jetwit.com.

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Kaijō!

by Justin Maki (ALT Osaka-fu, 2002-06), a writer and editor currently working at the Sports desk of Kyodo News America in New York City. He also writes about health and exercise science for J-Range Training (www.jrangetraining.com), a Denver-based fitness company whose method of low-impact weight training is under review for a US Patent. Justin’s short fiction, poetry, and essays have appeared in a handful of small journals. Contact him at makij408@gmail.com. 

“When you go to the kitchen to prepare dinner, be born in the kitchen. When you finish there, die. Then be born at the dining table as you eat your dinner and, when you finish eating, die there. Be born in the garden, and sweep with your broom. When you get into bed at night, die there. And when daylight comes, and you awaken in your bed, be born anew.”

These are the words of Soko Morinaga Roshi, the famous abbot of Daishuin Temple in Kyoto. Ten years after Morinaga-Roshi passed away, in the rainy season of my third year in Japan, I had the opportunity to move into Daishuin with his successor. Nobody was there except me and the monk, a wiry forty-year-old with thick glasses and a firm, toothy grin. I cooked with him, cleaned with him, meditated with him; at every meal I asked him questions and learned what I could, although he often left me puzzled. I was a total newcomer to Zen, more of a guest than a student, and far from fluent in Japanese.

And so my life began, every morning, in darkness. I heard soft footsteps in the hallway, followed by the dreaded “kaijō!” More dead than alive, I scrambled for my belt and ran to splash water on my face and fetch the bucket and rag. I was born in the hondō while lighting incense, and after we chanted sutras, I died. I wiped the temple’s long wooden corridors as the sun came up. Finally, with a sense of relief, I would go to the kitchen to make breakfast for myself and the monk, and be born anew.

At the time, I was commuting to work at a public high school in Osaka, and living in the temple thanks to a substitute English teacher who had been friends with the late Morinaga-Roshi. In order to leave for work on time, I couldn’t afford to spend more than twenty minutes on breakfast — but compared to the strenuous pace of our chores, these twenty minutes were a long and leisurely extravagance. I would set the table with two bowls of rice gruel and two sets of chopsticks, and on a saucer-sized plate for each of us, I would arrange a few grams of seaweed, a pinch of salty miso paste, and a plum so intensely sour that even the monk used to grimace while eating it.

I remember this particular combination of tastes more vividly than almost anything else from four years in Japan. These breakfasts gave me a powerful sensory cue, a link to what Zen practice made me feel: the much-needed shock to my system, the open passageway for intuition rather than the word-bound, cluttered “thoughts” that I had grown so dependent upon. Two months after leaving Kyoto, when the clutter began to overtake me again, I decided to re-create the temple diet as much as possible.

In the interim, I had gone back to Colorado for summer vacation and returned to southern Osaka prefecture to a new job and a new home. The apartment, selected by the rural board of education that now employed me, seemed fortuitously suited to my project. It had a hardwood-floor kitchen — perfect for the peaceful grounding ritual of wiping it down with a rag before dawn — and two completely empty tatami rooms, either of which would be great as a mini-zendō. I bought a huge jar of sour umeboshi, packets of miso paste, and seaweed as part of a simple diet.

But perhaps from the very first day, the project was more sentimental than a sign of any true humility or dedication. My new job involved teaching English in kindergarten and elementary schools, a wonderful experience, but one that required a lot more running, singing, and game-playing than working in a high school, and a full day’s exertion on a third-grader’s lunch of tonjiru soup and white rice. I often came home exhausted and starving. In the last hour that my local supermarket was open, I bought discounted sushi packs and box lunches. I would make quick sandwiches from ham or cheap tempura; I bought ready-made, single-serving containers of potato salad or tofu dishes; and for dessert I had red-bean-filled tea sweets without tea. As long as it didn’t require cooking, I was satisfied. The healthy foods I bought optimistically on the weekend, the udon noodles and broccoli and carrots, rotted in opened packages during the week and eventually had to be thrown away.

In the temple, we were not allowed to waste a single grain of rice. But this, obviously, was not temple life: not only did I never get up in time to wipe the hardwood floor, but I hardly got up in time to eat breakfast at all. Most nights I would set my rice cooker to begin cooking at 5:20 a.m., so that it would be done by 5:55 when I was supposed to get up. But with nobody yelling “kaijo!” in the morning, it could be 6:19, or 6:44, or even 7:02 by the time I got up and ate a quick bowl of rice and/or a slice of white bread before rushing out the door, biking furiously through the shotengai shops, parking illegally at a cram school behind the train station and sprinting through the ticket gate and up the stairs. Leftover rice was often the basis for dinner. Many times I would boil a bag of cheap instant curry to dump over the cold rice, and toss in a large package of tofu. My habit of eating sweets made sour plums unbearable. They too had to be thrown away.

One problem, I thought, was that I simply didn’t have the skills to cook healthy foods that were also satisfying. I enrolled in a bilingual weekly class called “Let’s Enjoy Japanese Home Cooking.” At every session I got hands-on practice making dishes like pork dumplings, grilled salmon with vegetables, various stir-fry meals and dashi-based soups. It was a fun and helpful class, but I still had trouble finding time to cook. My kitchen was not nearly as well-equipped as the class kitchen, and what implements I had were more often than not piled dirty in the sink.

As the winter progressed, my so-called meditation room fell into disuse as well. I had a profound appreciation for the benefits of Zen practice, but I wanted my own sort of practice, not necessarily locked into the culture of Buddhism. Therefore, my mini-zendō was actually a zendō-inspired reading room: by honing my concentration, I would learn to immerse myself completely in works of literature, to focus beyond the words until I could see the characters and situations take shape before my eyes. While sitting on the tatami floor, however, I had the same problem as I’d had while meditating in the zendō. My concentration wandered. My posture slumped. But instead of straightening up and persevering like I would have in the presence of a monk, in my private apartment I would slump further, lie on my back, or prop myself up on an elbow — none of which allowed me to concentrate for very long, and none of which were comfortable while shivering on a December evening. The hardwood floor I’d promised myself to wipe daily, as if wiping the stale, tangled thoughts from my mind, remained covered in teaching materials, dust, books, and dirty laundry.

Looking back, it is not hard to understand why this happened. One of my first questions for the monk had been to describe his idea of happiness. “When I have continued something tedious and difficult for a long time without giving up,” he’d answered. “That’s happiness.” Picking up a saucer-sized plate, he’d said that the top of the plate was tedium, the underside happiness. There was no dividing the two. But perhaps the attempt, this futile struggle to have it my own way, was a necessary stage of learning. Even Morinaga-Roshi describes the resistance in his young heart, the impatience with which he heard but failed to understand the words of his teacher. When Zuigan Roshi took him in at Daishuin, the very first lesson was this: “From the first, in people and in things, there is no such thing as trash.” Morinaga admits that it took considerable time and effort before he could put the meaning of this statement into practice. Similarly, I was not finding it easy to adopt the monk’s wisdom into my accustomed routine. The temple meals, apparently so simple and powerful, depended upon a much larger context that I couldn’t duplicate on my own.

And when I think of the best meals I had in the year after leaving the temple, I remember all the people who invited me into their homes and tried their best to speak English while generously providing homemade cooking and good saké. I remember my girlfriend making Sunday morning pancakes, and one day — a cool, fragrant day of sakura trees blooming in the rain — we’d made a big leafy salad with kiwi fruit and avocado, with cashews and raisins and orange chunks, with celery, spinach, cherry tomatoes — with the abundance and joy of springtime itself.

But most nights after work I was alone, and nothing went into my dinners but a hasty cash transaction. A thousand yen in the closing grocery store, choices made while trembling with hunger, happy at the weight of the basket against my arm. Cinnamon-raisin bread, some apples, seaweed with sprouts and tofu, a box lunch, a somen noodle tray. This is the way it happens: I rush out of the store and wait impatiently for the elevator to my fifth-floor apartment. There is no need to open my small fridge, because nothing of what I’ve bought will be left over. I go straight to eating the box lunch. It is a multi-compartment tray with take-no-ko rice, grilled salmon, a fried meatball, mashed potatoes, lettuce, seaweed, and a few other things. I do not look at the food very carefully before grabbing it with disposable wooden chopsticks and rushing it to my mouth. When I am finished with the tray, all I know is that I want more. I eat two apples quickly and dig into a packet of fried tofu. To make it more like dessert, I squeeze a layer of honey over the top of the firm, black-spotted surface. It cuts yet holds together as neatly as moist cake, and is just as delicious. Finally I take a long drink from a lukewarm bottle of tea that has been sitting in the apartment for several days.

I take a deep breath, the first one in quite a while. I am full, but far from born anew. A heap of empty plastic trays, dishes with neither tedium on one side nor happiness on the other, clutter the sink. “From the first, in people and in things, there is no such thing as trash” — and yet here I was in the rainy season of my fourth year in Japan, a year after my stay in Daishuin, reminding myself to get more trash bags.

New submissions always welcome.  Just e-mail it to Leah at jetwit [at] jetwit.com.

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“My Rice Ball World”

by Meredith Hodges-Boos (ALT, Ehime-ken, 2003-2005).  Please visit http://meredithhodgesboos.blog.com/ for more essays on her time in Japan and current literary projects.

I dragged my tired body into the entryway and found just enough energy to pry off my shoes.  The door rattled on the track as I slumped into the main room of the house my husband and I shared as Assistant Language Teachers.  “I’m home,”  I muttered to Greg and I blinked into the bright light of the room.  The glare and blare of the used Playstation we’d bought at Hard Off lit up the tatami in a rainbow of colors.

“Hey, welcome back.”  He nodded over his shoulder then proceeded to pound the opposing character on the screen.

He’d been home for three hours…the same amount of time it took me to get back from my farthest high school. I tried very hard to not hold it against him.  It wasn’t his fault I had eight schools or that I hadn’t eaten anything other than a piece of toast at four that morning.  The busy schedule of the day hadn’t given me time to eat anything else.  I didn’t want to break taboo of eating on the bus yet again.

But that was okay.  Everything was fine now because I had a sweet, delectable, frosted cherry Pop-Tart waiting with my name on it.  I’d spent the long bus ride home imagining the taste of the overly sweet jam on my tongue, the gentle crack of the sugared sprinkles against my teeth, and the homey smell of the soft cakey back.  My stomach growling hard enough to cramp, I headed for the kitchen.

Pop-Tarts were one of the few comforts I had from home.  Mom didn’t like paying $12 to ship a box of $1.50 snacks to me.  Although I did get a lot of care packages, the Pop-Tarts were a rare treat.  People back in Tennessee didn’t seem to understand that I desperately needed other foods that didn’t contain something raw, fishy or some sort of innards.  Pop-Tarts were safe, they were sweet and they were something I’d eaten since I was in grade school.

Yawning and still blinking, I grabbed the blue and pink box and reached inside, the stress of the day sloughing off my shoulders as my fingers sought out the shiny wrapper.  The box was strangely light.  My fingers hit the bottom.

Inside I found nothing.

It was empty.

There were no Pop-Tarts in the box.

I glanced into the other room.  Next to my husband’s rear was a shiny wrapper with the words “Pop-Tart, do not microwave in package” written on the front.  I twitched.  Other than the crumbs on the tatami, the pouch was empty.

In the three months we’d been married, we’d avoided the fabled first real husband versus wife fight.  Three months was a good amount of time, my mind whispered, no shame there.  Yeah, three months was a very satisfactory span, I nodded my head.

Then I yelled, “You ate my Pop-Tarts!”

Greg cringed and turned to me with that guilty grin of his, “Oh, was that the last one?  Sorry about that.”  He turned back to the game.

I threw the empty box at his head.

Again, this may have seemed extreme, but remember, there are no Pop-Tarts in Japan.  And it would take over two weeks to get more.  And it had taken me three hours to get home.  And I was hungry.  And my husband had eaten the very last one!  And he’d left the empty box as evidence!

So I did what any newly wed woman would do after a one sided fight, I left.  I went out the door, slipped on my worn out tennis shoes and grabbed my bike.  Greg would follow me eventually.  But for now I was still hungry and I wanted time to be alone.  The wind cut bitterly across my cheeks as I pedaled out onto the main street.  Passing the small shops that lined our road, I swerved around the kids walking home and the old women on their mopeds.  I kept my head down so I wouldn’t have to explain why I was crying.  It didn’t matter much though; blonde hair flying at you on a bike in rural Japan was tantamount to a buffalo driving a clown car.  So I waved half-heartedly to the people who shouted hello and nodded to those who bowed their good evenings.

Honestly, I didn’t know where I was going.  A restaurant was out.  The owners all knew me since I couldn’t cook.  And if they saw me this upset then who knows who else would know by the next day at work.  The last thing I needed was for my superiors chastising me for making the town worry over something as silly as a Pop-Tart.  The grocery store was just as bad since the cashiers knew me too.  So I compromised and pedaled towards the setting sun and the safety of the blue and white sign with the milk bottle and English name:  Lawson.

Lawson is a chain of convenience stores found all over Japan.  To someone as gastronomically challenged as myself, the store was like a second home.  They stocked most of our dinners in a week, from fried rice boxes, to dried squid legs and beer snacks, to specialty ice creams.  Greg and I had agreed that even if I had cooked more, it would have been next to impossible in Japan.  Both of us spoke some Japanese, but when it came to reading labels in the grocery, we were hopeless.  Not that I cooked that much to begin with.  Cooking had become something of a phobia for me.  In junior high, I’d been shuffled into the Home Economics class with the other girls.  I’d burnt every dish without fail.  My teacher took pity on me and my less than savory dishes and gave me a chance for extra credit.

At six thirty in the morning, I stumbled into the Home Economics room with its line of angry ovens and glaring pots and pans.  My task was to make sugar cookies, the most simple of all recipes.  It was such a foolproof assignment my teacher let me do it completely by myself.  I found out later she’d been asleep in the staff room.  I did my best.  I mixed and followed the order of ingredients to the letter.  With the oven pre-heated and the cookie sheet greased, I slid my cookies in with the conviction that this time would be different.  This time I’d make something edible at least.  Then the bell rang and I headed to class and left the cookies to bake.

Five hours later as we filed out of the school, the fire alarm echoing in the halls behind us, I remembered said cookies.  Smoke billowed out the window of the Home Economics room like an angry finger, pointing me out.  Sniffling and sobbing, I walked up to the vice principal and said, “I’m so sorry.  Those were my sugar cookies.”

I was transferred to Wood Shop the next day.  A week later I cut off the tip of my ring finger.  The study hall teacher was very worried when I showed up in her class after that.  Luckily, I survived that class without so much as a paper cut.  Anyway, after that cooking was very low on my list of priorities.

The door to Lawson swung open into a warm, overly bright line of foods and drinks.  On the far side of the store some of my students were looking at the naughty comics.  They looked up, blushed and quickly scattered to the fashion, automotive and, ironically, the cooking magazines.  I simply grumbled and headed to the safest food in the store, the onigiri rice balls.

I grabbed the first three I came to, their wrappers crackling in my hand.  Without another thought, I set them down on the check out counter and waited, not daring to look up.  Setting my students straight was one thing, but facing the concern of our usual cashier was another.  “Meru, is this all?”  She asked, her dark hair swinging into view of my lowered gaze.  I muttered something that must have sounded like a polite yes and nodded.  My own blonde hair was a tangled mess from the day and the wind as it slid over my red eyes.  “Okay, 315 yen please.”  She said.  I forked over the money, thankful that I had enough after the bus fare that day.  The coins clattered as I missed dropping them into the cashier’s hand.  They fell to the plastic sheet covering Lawson’s new ad for their late fall products.  Ah, I thought, they’ll have oden again soon.  I should tell Greg…

Biting my lip, I took my receipt and darted for the door.  I didn’t want anyone to see me crying.  Outside the last light of sunset faded away behind the mountains and the ships in the bay lulled in the waves.  The wind had turned cold now that the sun was gone.  I sighed and leaned up against the cigarette machine, clasping the rice balls in my hand.  After three deep breaths I straddled my bike.  Tossing the onigiri into the rusty basket, I tried very hard not to shiver.

“Meru!”  The attendant had followed me.  I ran my fists over my eyes and looked up.  The cashier handed me a small can of hot cocoa.  She knew I didn’t drink coffee and I didn’t even know her name.  “Here.  It’s warm.”  Thank God for the Japanese and their wonderful warm cocoa in a can, who needs hand warmers when you got hot chocolate?  Without another word, she smiled and went back inside.

Dumbfounded and touched, I waved to her as I peddled out of the parking lot.  She bowed.  The cocoa was a warm weight in my pocket.  Still I had no idea where to go.  Across the street was a small shrine.  It seemed as good a place as anywhere so I parked the bike again and went under the tall red gate.  Two stone foxes watched as I shuffled through the fallen leaves.  I headed for the wooden steps of the main building, my supper stuffed in my pockets.  The cold seeped in through my coat as I sat down, chilling my backside and shoulders as I leaned against the stairs.

There’s a scene in one of Hayao Miyazaki’s animated movies, Spirited Away, where the main character eats rice balls after losing her family and getting lost in a strange world.  Huge, round tears drip down her cheeks as she stuffs the onigiri into her mouth between sobs.  I spent the next few minutes eating the first rice ball reenacting that particular scene.

By the second one, I’d calmed down.  The silence of the shine took the edge off of my anger and hurt.  It occurred to me then that this was one of the first meals I’d eaten alone in Japan.  All the others had been with co-workers, or friends, or with Greg.  Even my traveling meals had been secretly scarfed down with people all around me on trains or buses.  Alone now, I took a moment to look at my meager dinner.

Okay, so it wasn’t a Pop-Tart.  But if I’d been in America…would I have been this angry over not getting an onigiri?  Pop-Tarts were all sweet, inside and out.  It reminded me of how it had been in college and home. 

Things had been so easy then.  I had my family around me, including Greg of course, and everything had made sense.  I knew what to expect.  There was a plan, a rhythm so familiar I didn’t even notice it anymore.  It hadn’t taken me days to figure out what a sign on the road meant.  I understood every part of a conversation without having to guess about certain words.  It was the sweet cake-like bread backing, the sugary coating and the sublime delight that was the jam in the center.

Japan was not sugary…not a piece of cake at all.  I glanced down at my onigiri.  There was a gap in the nori seaweed covering where I’d bitten into it.  The taste of it was bitter and crunchy and soggy all at the same time.  It was something I’d never tasted in America.  But it wasn’t bad, just different.  Inside was full of sticky rice.  Each grain was the same size, the same color and had the same taste.  The unity and subtlety of it was suddenly astounding; like the people around me in Japan.  Everyone worked together.  No one wanted to stand out because the group was more important.

I sniffed again and took another bite.  In the middle of the rice ball was a burst of taste, tuna and mayonnaise.  It wasn’t sweet, but there was something just as good.  It was like the tiny victories of my time in Japan.  It was when a student finally understood, the light in their eyes that lit up.  It was like finding the street we’d been looking for without getting too lost.  It was pushing the stop button on the bus at the right time and having the driver grin.  It was making a home here, far away from everything I knew and thriving.  It wasn’t sweet, it was filling.

“Hey.”  Greg ducked under the gate, holding my coat under his arm.

“Hey.”  I looked up, blinking and smiling a bit.

He sat down beside me and draped my coat over my shoulders.  “You okay?”

“Yeah.”

“You mad?”

I shook my head.  “Nah, not anymore.”  I handed him the last onigiri and opened the warm cocoa.  “Here.”  I drank half of it and gave him the can.

“Thanks.”  He ate them in silence beside me his eyes glued to the stone foxes surrounded the waving rice ropes and folded white papers whispering in the wind.  “You ready to get out of here and go home?  This place is spooky.”

I stood up and offered him a hand up.  He took it, relieved.  “Nah, this place is like a rice ball.”

Greg raised an eyebrow but said nothing.  We walked to my bike.  I was kicking back the stand when he finally said, “You sure you’re okay?”

“Yeah.”  I grinned up at him.  We’d survived our first big fight and I’d handled my first solo meal as well as could be expected.  Across the street I saw the cashier at Lawson peeking out the window.  I held Greg’s hand and made him wave as I did.  She smiled and went back to work.  “I’m fine.  But don’t you dare eat my Pop-Tarts again.”

We walked home to our rice ball world hand in hand.

Peelander-Yellow, center: "I don't care about Band!!!!! We never 'play' music!!!!! We just want to 'play' with youuuuuu!!!!! Come to see our show then check it yourself!!!!!!!!" (Whitney Lee)

By Justin Tedaldi (CIR Kobe-shi, 2001-02) and Vlad Baranenko (Saitama-ken, 2000-02) for JQ magazine.

Psychedelic, seizure inducing, and fantastically successful in their ability to cause absolute sensory overload during their intergalactic performances, Peelander-Z is back. The colorful Japanese punk group hailing from the Z area of Planet Peelander returns to New York City (where it formed in 1998) for their latest tour behind their new album Super DX Hitz.

Those yearning for their Peelander-Z fix will have the opportunity to experience all the colorful mayhem at the Bowery Poetry Club on Oct. 22. In this exclusive interview, we interrogate Peelander-Yellow to reveal the deepest secrets of their cosmic travel, their mastery of the chaos theory, and what the future holds for the ongoing kaiju saga.

Tell us about Peelander-Z’s Super DX Hitz album.

You can hear our all Hitz songs and understand Peelander-Z world!!!!!!!

28 happy songs and 5 Karaoke DVD!!!!

Get it for your Mom, because your Mom wants dance with youuuuuuuuuu and Peelander-Z!!!

How do you come up with the themes for your songs?

All ideas come from my sweet yellow brain when I eat medium rare S.T.E.A.K., Tacos, Ice Cream~~~~~!!!!!

What inspired you to form the band?

I don’t care about Band!!!!!

We never “play” music!!!!!

We just want to “play” with youuuuuu!!!!!

Come to see our show then check it yourself!!!!!!!!

Who is Peelander-Yellow and what’s his story?

I’m not Peelander-Red!

I’m not Peelander-Green!

I’m not Peelander-Pink!

I’m not Peelander-Black!

Yes, I’m Peelander-Yellow for youuuuuuuu!!!!!!

I was born from Banana on Planet Peelander!!!!!

That’s why I love it!!!!!

Please bring it for meeeeeee!!!!!

Peelander-Z was formed in New York. What is it about the city that feels like home to you?

Soooo Many Nooodle Restaurant in NYC, That’s why we feel our home town!!!!!

We want to make our own Nooooodle Restaurant!!! Yeahhh!!!!!

If you could be any kaiju, which one would it be and why?

Gamera!!!!! Do you know it????

It is big turtle that flys, spins and flys!!!!!

It soooo coooool!!!!

If I can be it, I want spin dance with MJ!!!!!!

Who is your intended audience with your music and show?

All of people!!!!

Kiz to GrandMom!!!!!

Because we do play understandable for everybody!!!!!!

Tell us about the craziest live gig in Peelander-Z’s career. What happened?

I broke my leg when I jumped from 2nd floor in New Mexico!!!!

also

I lost my front tooth @Bonnaroo Music Fest in Tennessee!!!!

How much do you drink before each show?

We never drink anything except your happee energy~~~~!!!

Hahahahaha~~~~~!!!!

How much do you drink after each show? What do you usually like to drink then?

We love to drink soy-sauce with wasabi!!!!

Yeah!!!! We look like Japanese~~~~!!!!!!!!!

Do you write your songs in English, or Japanese first and then translate them?

NO, NO, NO, NO!!!!!

I write Peelander-Language!!!!!!

What are you trying to say with your unique hairstyle?

This is not hair!!!!

This is Tentacles!!!!

I will get youuuuuuuu, tonite!!!!!!

Oh yeah!!!! Halloweeeeen is coming~~~!!!!!

Who is your favorite Japanese star?

My Favorite J-Star is “Pikachu”~~~~~!!!!

Yes!!! He is my best friend on the Earth!!!!!!!!

I’m yellow and he is yellow, too!!!!!

Do you have a favorite American musician? Who’s your biggest musical inspiration?

Jonas Brothers!!!!!!!!

Yo Gabba Gabba!!!!!!!!

Ohhh Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What are the band’s future plans, and where would you like to be five years from now?

We want to get big trailer to do word tour

with

David Coopperfield and white tigers

Cosplay girls from Akihabara

Mr. Morikoto and sushi bender

WWF wrestlers with Wrestling ring

yeahhhhh!!!

Super Happeee tourrrrrrr!!!!

We are not Japanese!!!

We are not American!!!

We are not Human-Being!!!

We are Peelander-Z!!!

Thank you very much!!!!!!

Peelander-Z tours America through Dec. 12. For more on information, visit www.peelander-z.com.

The Rice Cooker Chronicles is a series of essays by JETs and JET alumni on the theme of cooking/eating and being alone in Japan. The brain-child of JETwit founder  Steven Horowitz (Aichi-ken, Kariya-shi, 1992-94) (and inspired by the book Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant), this series is curated by Leah Zoller (CIR Ishikawa-ken, Anamizu, 2009-11), the editor of The Ishikawa JET Kitchen: Cooking in Japan Without a Fight. A writer and translator for The Art of Japan: Kanazawa and Discover Kanazawa, she also writes I’ll Make It Myself!, a blog about food culture in Japan.

New submissions always welcome.  E-mail Leah at jetwit [at] jetwit.com.

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“Nattode”

By JQ magazine editor Justin Tedaldi (CIR Kobe-shi, 2001-02). Visit his Examiner.com page for related Japanese culture stories.

I’m at a restaurant that bleeds sophistication. Seated across from me is a stunning member of the opposite sex, joining me for the sole purpose of sampling the house’s signature dish, a personal favorite of mine.

Tender music swells in the background. The lighting is perfect, with the glow of candlelight on the table framing my partner’s irresistible charms as a celebrated bon vivant holds court four tables over. Spirits are high, and we’re high on spirits. The mood is ripe.

I snap my fingers to cue the waiter, who gracefully sets two silver trays before us. “Enjoy,” he says dryly. I look him straight in the eye and grin, signaling as I have many times before that I fully intend to.

It’s time. Gloved hands raise the lids, revealing…a small pair of Styrofoam trays with thin sheets of plastic on top. My date is puzzled.

I know what she’s thinking: is that it? Or are they going to, like, light this on fire to cook the actual main course? A demonstration is in order.

Brandishing a pair of chopsticks in my right hand, I gingerly lift the plastic several inches upward with my left, leaving behind a messy string of viscosity that oozes all the way from the plastic, sinking back into the tray. The pungent scent is inescapable, like something you’d encounter accidentally in transit.

I stab what’s inside with the sticks and twist my wrist clockwise several turns. Before the Venus can say a word, I press the smelly, sizable glob through her parted lips.

Languid chewing, then silence. As her cheeks swell, the goo slimes its way down her lips, nestling off her chin. In other words, it looks like she’s suffering from a nasty cold as opposed to enjoying one of my all-time favorite delicacies.

So goes my experiences with natto, a traditional Japanese food made from fermented soybeans that most of its countrymen and women would choose not to consume if their lives depended on it. This is partly due to its reputation as “healthy,” but more about its inimitable appearance.

Naturally, after I returned to the States my parents would remark, “Son, since when did you develop a taste for dog food?”

I was first introduced to natto as a teenager through an anime in which a hapless wife who, preparing a homemade meal for the very first time, mistakenly puts ketchup atop the natto—the Western equivalent to slathering relish over pasta. (In fairness, there are probably some Japanese who would find the ketchup an improvement.)

After years of wondering what this bête noire called natto was like, my curiosity was rewarded within the first week of my arrival in Kobe as a university exchange student. Enjoying breakfast with my host family one morning, I polished off the familiar—cereal, toast, eggs, sausage and salad—but then, something curious was plopped down before me on a bed of rice.

It didn’t look good (and in the ken of Japanese cuisine, this is really saying something), and we’ve already covered the smell, but there was something about its taste that hooked me instantly and hasn’t let go. Even today, I’m challenged to describe what natto tastes like, since it bears no resemblance to raw or cooked soybeans, and doesn’t bear the flavor of anything else that’s edible through fermentation. Back then I likened it to edible paste, or a nutty mucous. If it ain’t broke, indeed.

The fact that I could stomach natto put me in a whole other court of opinion with the average Japanese, vaulting me far beyond the “can you use chopsticks-do you own a gun-do you play sex” crowd. (There’s nothing like being branded a particularly incorrigible henna gaijin simply because you enjoy one of their most identifiable national foods. Imagine if we Americans spread the same double standard to the Double-Double.)

Something else: natto has now become the ultimate litmus test for gauging my compatibility with a potential mate. Forget horoscopes and blood types, natto is the great equalizer. Without exaggeration, my relationships with Those Who Can Try It have lasted far longer than with Those Who Would Prefer Toejam, and this gains added weight for significant others (although even I’ve thought twice about sneaking a kiss after munching some).

This is no coincidence. Like many acquired tastes, natto will not tumble neatly into a communal dining experience. It just can’t be shared. No, it must be savored solitarily, and what better time in young man’s life is there to enjoy something in private, away from prying eyes, than on the JET Programme?

I’ve always wondered if part of my attachment to natto speaks to a deeper part of my psyche. The ultimate underdog food, it assaults nearly every sense of a Japanese. As a foreigner working in a big city but still living far beyond the fringes of the Sticky Rice Society given my unmistakably clashing background and appearance, natto and I bonded in a way that I never could have with my coworkers, or even the Drummania machine (another magnificent obsession).

This was all the more remarkable after learning the Kansai region has far less passion for natto than their eastern neighbors. The irony that one of the most homogeneous societies on earth with a strong reputation for groupism could shun such a dish while leaving the door open for cadres of connoisseurs (both foreign and domestic) to beat the drum in its favor was not lost on me.

I could relate to natto. We both might have been welcomed to Japan, but we each clearly had our own struggles attracting the greater public no matter how good our intentions. After the daily gruel of the jimusho, the balm was dashing straight home to indulge in a fresh tray right out of the fridge. (Another benefit of this miracle food—it can be enjoyed at any meal, cold or room temperature, straight up or with accompaniment.)

A word about that. Legend says that Chairman Frank Sinatra was notoriously precise about the way he took his whiskey. A minimum of ice, and never mixed with water (the rationale being that he wanted a drink, not a bath). I’m the same when it comes to natto: give me the packet of mustard provided and I’m good to go. (Sauce? Pshaw!) I always made an effort to hunt down the no-frills, whole bean variety, and if I was in a particularly adventurous mood I would grate some cheddar cheese on top. You know, to keep things exciting.

Happily, this tradition still continues today. Thanks to an Asian supermarket located tantalizingly close to home, my fridge is never without at least one full package of natto (even in New York, it’s happily inexpensive), and almost every morning I’m faced with the same decision: before or after cereal?

Since returning from JET, I’ve read all about different combinations of natto streets ahead of anything I could have dreamed up on my own. Natto toast, fried natto and natto ice cream are all vittles I hope to try one day, and I’ve even taken the creativity of the old days one step further by whipping up new ways to prepare it for an eager audience of one. Natto omelet, anyone?

My relationship with natto has been one of my greatest takeaways from living in Japan. Like keeping up with the culture itself, it’s provided me with a lifelong fascination, a new shade of tolerance and a respect for the unconventional, and I remain optimistic that I can convert more tyros to its elusive appeal. Looking back, it’s strange to think that even before I could grasp just what exactly it was, I was somehow expecting greatness from natto. What I got instead was transcendence.

Fukushima City JET Brent Stirling recently put out word to JETAA chapters about Quakebook, “a book of stories, art and photographs that reflected first person accounts of the disaster” which will soon be available on Amazon.com with all proceeds going to benefit the Japan Red Cross.   Brent contributed his own story and has also offered to help with marketing and spreading the word.  Below Brent provides some insight into the unique process that led to the creation of of the project as well as his own involvement.

I lived in Fukushima City from August 2006 to August 2010 and worked as an ALT there.  The recent earthquake, tsunami and nuclear crisis in Tohoku has had me glued to my computer since it began, as has probably been the case with all JET Alumni.  Keeping in contact with my friends in Fukushima-ken through Facebook and Twitter, I felt helpless as far as how to help and what to do.

With limited access to news in the first days after the quake, I compiled information from friend’s Facebook status updates, Twitter and a variety of news sources.  I sent these updates via Facebook to my friends who didn’t have the time to comb through the news in order to get an accurate picture of what was going on.  Updates included news about transportation, gas, areas with running water, wind directions, reactor conditions and radiation levels.  Facebook became a source of news for everyone in the prefecture.  The current and former Fukushima JET community along with Japanese people worked together in order to get a clear picture of what was going on in Fukushima.

A week after the earthquake, I was sent a link to a blog asking for contributions about the earthquake.  The blogger, OurManInAbiko, hoped to create a book of stories, art and photographs that reflected first person accounts of the disaster.  He vowed to edit all the submissions and donate all of the proceeds to the Japanese Red Cross.  Looking to help anyway I could, I put in a submission about my experience in Canada throughout the ordeal and how proud the JETs and Japanese community had made me throughout the crisis.  My submission discusses sensationalism in the media and how the JET community worked together using social media to overcome adversity and share accurate news on the situation as it unfolded.  I didn’t know that within 15 hours, OurManInAbiko had received 74 eyewitness submissions from all over Japan, as well as reactions from elsewhere in Asia, Europe and North America.

Through Twitter, the idea of #Quakebook grew.  Just as the Fukushima-ken JETs had used social networks in order to keep in contact, #Quakebook was using the networks in order to promote and create a book.  People joined in to spread the word and help with the logistics of publishing a book of this magnitude in such a short span of time.  Soon after, writer, William Gibson wrote a piece for the book, then Jake Adelstein contributed, Yoko Ono has recently come on board, offering her own piece in Japanese and English  Through the work of so many on Twitter from all over the world, #Quakebook began to take off.  Articles appeared on the BBC website, the Wall Street Journal and CNN Go to name a few.  Amazon has agreed to publish the book, waiving all of their fees with 100% of the money going to the Japanese Red Cross.  The all-volunteer team of #Quakebook is now working at getting translations of the book into different languages so that it can be a truly worldwide phenomenon.

The group that comprises the Quakebook team is continually growing.  Every person involved is using their skills and their own contacts in order to get the word out to every corner of the globe.  The team, while working closely is completely anonymous as everyone is referred to by their Twitter names.  My role has been very small throughout the Quakebook marketing process, but I believe in the book and I think it has the potential to bring people who are otherwise removed from the situation in Japan closer to it.  In buying the book, not only are people making a donation to the Japanese Red Cross, but they’re also getting the stories of the people involved, the people that this disaster has affected.

I know that all JET Alumni are tied to Japan the same way that I am.  Everyone’s time in Japan had a profound affect on where they are now and what they’ve done with their lives.  I’m hoping that this connection to Japan will get JET Alumni Associations worldwide to support and promote this book as best they can.  By putting a link to the Quakebook website on your blog, printing Quakebook posters for around your neighbourhood or your local library or getting it into the media wherever you are, everyone can make a difference in this project and help with the relief efforts in Japan.

• Pre-order the book at www.quakebook.org
• Excerpts from Quakebook
• Brent’s re-work of his submission

• Has your life been uprooted?
• Have things returned to some sort of normality?  Are you still teaching every day?
• Has the radiation issue affected you or influenced any of your decisions?
• Have you moved to another part of Japan?  Or left Japan?
• Are you involved in volunteering, fundraising or other disaster support activities?
• Are you housing JETs or evacuees?
• What’s next?

Whether dramatic or mundane or something in between, we want to hear about it.  Please share any responses in the comments section of this post.  Or feel free to email jetwit [at] jetwit.com.

Yoroshiku onegaishimasu and hope everyone is getting on ok.

–Steven Horowitz (Aichi-ken, Kariya-shi, 1992-94)
Brooklyn, NY

Update:  See submitted stories further below in this post!  Additional ones will be added as received.  So keep checking back.

I learned recently from our friends at the free Japanese weekly Shukan NY Seikatsu that “food” is the leading driver of tourism to Japan from the U.S. these days.  With that in mind, I thought it might be helpful (not to mention oishii and natsukashii) if the JET and JET alum community were to share personal anecdotes about cooking while living in Japan.

• E-mail responses to Steven at jetwit [at] jetwit.com.  

• Please make sure to include your prefecture, city/town and years on JET in the following format:  Steven Horowitz (Aichi-ken, Kariya-shi, 1992-94)

• Responses can be as short as once sentence and as long as 5 paragraphs.  (*If you want to write something longer, that’s great too.  I just suggest checking with me first to get on the same page before spending a lot of time and effort writing.)

• Responses will be aggregated into one easy-to-read post.

• Yes, this is one more project intended to help boost the “return on JET-vestment” for local governments as well as for Japan on the whole.

Itadakimasu!

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Stories of Cooking in Japan

6:30am after an all-nighter in Shibuya, decided to take the subway to Tsukiji. Waited 50 minutes in line and paid $40 for 8 pieces of sushi. Worth every second and every penny. Still a meal my friend and I talk about 3 years later.

-Rick Ambrosio (Ibaraki-ken, 2006-08)

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Nakatsu, the city where I was placed on JET, had a wealth of restaurant options, from a cheap and delicious tonkotsu Hakata ramen shop across the street from my house, to an authentic Indian restaurant, to the usual 100 yen kaiten sushi. In addition, I had kyuushoku at my chuugakkou, so I never had to worry about lunch during the weeks.  Nakatsu is famous for being the ancestral home of Fukuzawa Yukichi (the guy on the 10,000 yen notes), and on the culinary front known for hamo (a kind of boney eel – in my opinion a bit overhyped) and kara-age (marinated and batter-fried chicken – absolutely sublime.  In the town lore, Nakatsu’s kara-age stands apparently put KFC out of business because the locals preferred their homegrown friend chicken.

Despite all the eating-out options, I still had plenty of opportunities to cook for myself, and for my friends, as my house was the site of many a dinner party during my time on JET. Unlike more rural JETs, I was lucky when it came to finding a variety of ingredients.  There were a handful of big grocery stores in town, a specialty/import food store across the street from my house (right next to the ramen shop), as well as a farmer’s market near one of my schools. I loved how the produce at the former’s market was labeled with the names of the people who raised it.  Such a direct and personal connection to food.  You can’t get any more locally-grown then that, especially in a town where the small dense city center quickly turned into vegetable patches and rice paddies.

Some things took some getting used to though.  Like only having two burners on my gas stove, or not having an oven.  But I quickly learned to be resourceful and to find workarounds and “kitchen hacks”, such as how to make a molten chocolate cake in a rice cooker.  With such easy access to a variety of Japanese foods, I have to admit I rarely cooked Japanese food at home, but instead explored my own personal fusion cooking, or made foods that I couldn’t find in restaurants in the area.  I have fond memories of hosting my Japanese friends and fellow JETs for “theme” dinners at my place.  Among the many dinner parties I hosted, I remember we had a Middle Eastern tapas night, a Thai food night, a Taiwanese dinner, and a gumbo fundraiser for Hurricane Katrina relief.

-Lee-Sean Huang (Oita-ken, Nakatsu-shi, 2003-06)  http://leesean.net

Important: If you have not yet responded, please help out by entering your JET Tourist-Tally information in the Google Form we’ve set up.  And of course feel free to share any comments or stories!  Every response matters.  CLAIR, MOFA, JNTO and the prefecture governments are all paying attention to the results.

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The Top 10 Comments from the JET-Tourist Tally Project

(FYI, the comments were evaluated on the basis of “omoshiroi” plus effectiveness at demonstrating the value of JET.)

I took my parents up through Tohoku to experience a part of Japan tourists typically don’t see. We hiked Yamadera, shot over to Sendai and Matsushima, went to Hiraizumi, traveled through Aomori up to Sapporo, went over to Onuma Park, down to Hakonodate, and then down to Aomori for a few more days. They loved all of our experiences, from using an onsen and sleeping in a ryokan to learning how to order their own food. My father particularly loves to tell the story about a tiny yakiniku restaurant we stumbled into in Hiraizumi. The owner couldn’t speak English, but he did know at least one word. He came over to my father, put a beer down and said “suds.” From that point on, they were friends. A Buddhist monk sitting a few tables over joined us and invited us to visit his temple the next day. It was an amazing intercultural experience in an ancient town usually overlooked by tourists.

-Abigail McBain (Aomori-ken, Ajigasawa-machi, 2004-06)

My family said they never would’ve thought to visit Japan before I did JET, and since visiting twice couldn’t believe they ever said that because they had the most amazing time. Especially memorable was the opportunity to see village life in Japan and experience Japanese hospitality, something regular tourists rarely get to experience.

-Kirsten Jones (Tokushima-ken, Tsurugi-cho, 2005-07)

My parents still talk about the experiences they had visiting me in Japan.  My father in particular.  As a result he still maintains links to Japan and often buys tea directly from a Japanese seller near Uji named Hibiki-an. I myself have returned to Japan as a tourist three times since I finished the JET Programme, one time with a fellow JET alumna, staying 10 days each time. I plan to visit Japan again. I also often encourage my American friends who are interested in visiting Japan to go. One of my co-workers recently went there on vacation, again for about 10 days, and had a wonderful time.

-Rose de Fremery (Shizuoka-ken, Hamaoka-cho, 1998-2001)

Being able to share a country that I love (Japan) with people that I love (my family) was one of the best experiences of my life. My mother still talks about coming to visit me for those two weeks. We were able to explore my town (Hamamatsu) and also Tokyo, Hiroshima and Kyoto. In addition, this was the first time my mother had ever left the United States; she is amazingly proud to say she became a world-traveler when she was in her 50s! This would not have happened if I had not been a JET participant and could confidently share parts of Japan with my family.

-Jennifer Butler (Shizuoka-ken, Hamamatsu-shi, 2001-04)

Both of my visitors were and still are keen practitioners of aikido. They continue to teach the martial art and will be regular visitors to Japan, also inspiring others to travel there. Without my JET experience I wouldn’t have been able to take them to Japan.  Also, I am now a British Airways pilot flying regularly to Tokyo so I could perhaps list a figure of several thousand visitors!

-Darren Tostevin (Fukuoka-ken, Omuta-shi, 1990-91)

Prior to my becoming an ALT, my fiance had never had any interest whatsoever in visiting Japan. It was only once I went there and started to tell her about the people I had met that she began to read more and educate herself about the country. When she finally came to visit me, she was constantly amazed at how genuinely welcoming and helpful everyone was as well as how easy it was to get around and experience everything that Japan has to offer.  To this day she still tells everyone about her experiences there and how Japan went from the bottom of her “Places to Visit” list to become her favorite country that she’s ever visited. Not only did the JET Programme give my family and friends an amazing opportunity to see what Japan has to offer but it also converted someone who never had given the country a second thought into a vocal volunteer tourism spokeswoman.

-Gregory Blair (Nagasaki-ken, Saikai-shi, 2007-08)

I made sure to show two of my guests around Niigata, which is not your typical tourist destination–and they loved it even more than Kyoto! Having JETs in locations off the beaten track surely helps those areas.

-Maureen O’Brien (Niigata-ken, Niigata-shi, 2006-08)

Several of these visitors (at least 5) had previously stated absolutely no interest in visiting Japan…it took quite a bit of convincing on my part to get these individuals to come. In the case of one, a senior citizen friend from England, it just seemed so un-knowable and far beyond her comfort zone. But she loved it once she arrived. The other four, a Philippine-American family who are friends here in the US, were previously very anti-Japanese due to experiences their grandparents’ generation suffered during WWII. They couldn’t understand how I would possibly want to move to Japan on JET. But they kept in touch the entire two years, and finally – just one month before I returned – they agreed to come for a visit. They fell in love with the people and the country, their prejudices were totally erased. Even now, three years later, they are still talking about Japan…only now it is in terms of how wonderful and warm the people are and how we should all live up to these standards of hospitality. A total about-face!

-Margie Banin (Kochi-ken, Motoyama-cho, 2005-07)

My parents would never have dreamed of visiting Japan had I not been there. Now they are complete Japan enthusiasts and are really interested in the country and culture. My friends who came to visit still talk about it now and pass this on to other people, encouraging others to visit Japan.  Also, thanks to my stories, pictures and news from the two years I spent in Japan, my whole network of friends and family have shared my interest in the country. I also organised letter exchanges with my old high school, and at least 20 students has direct contact with Japanese students at my school in Yakage-cho, and have become Japan enthusiasts.

-Annie Barber (Okayama-ken, Yakage-cho, 2007-09)

I had heard about all sorts of difficulties vegetarian ALTs had settling in to Japan, so I was a little worried when a vegetarian friend of mine came to visit.  After five days of my drilling her with phrases that would help her order meat-free food, she and her companion ventured off to Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima for a week. They had no problems and were really impressed with how the restaurants were able to cater for her special dietary requests. They were also really impressed with the variety of food offered (tofu, seasonal / mountain veggies, tempura, etc.) that were appropriate for vegetarians. Another example of excellent service in Japan, going that extra mile to satisfy the customer! (On another side note, I’ve been pining for a visit back to Japan since I left and have managed to persuade my family to come with me after Golden Week this year. Assuming everyone can make it, that will be another 4 people spending a total of 48 days tourist travel in Japan!)

-Martin McCloud (Niigata-ken, Tokamachi-shi, 2004-09)

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Stories from the JET-Tourist Tally Project

(Organized by Prefecture)

Aichi

All of my visitors had a great time in Japan. As my knowledge of Japan and Japanese increased, it was interesting to see how guiding my visitors changed. My family visited in my first year. I was greatly lacking in my ability to read any kanji. Luckily, my parents are fluent in Chinese (reading, speaking, and writing), so they would sometimes tell me what some kanji might mean based on Chinese. In turn, I would speak in Japanese if we were at a restaurant, shop, or if my parents had a question for someone who spoke limited English. By my last year, I had improved significantly, so I was able to be a more effective guide. For all of the visits from my family and friends, it was a lot of fun for them and me. Of course, I traveled around Japan with other JETs or alone at times, so there’s countless more tourism from that too!

-Justin Moy (Aichi-ken, Tokyokawa-shi, Mito-cho, 2007-10)

My parents came as well as my two brothers and a friend. We traveled all around, to Beppu, to a snowy onsen in Gifu and even stayed in a capsule hotel in Tokyo one night just for the experience. After JET I arranged to spend a semester of law school studying at Waseda University which created an ongoing relationship between Duke and Waseda that continues sending students back and forth today. (I also created and run the JetWit.com site.)  I can safely say that I would have never had an interest in Japan had it not been for the JET Program.

-Steven Horowitz (Aichi-ken, Kariya-shi, 1992-94)

Akita

My brother is not a traveler. He’s not a risk taker. He is always working. But he found the time to come visit me in my little inaka town, which meant the world to me. He was 43 when he came to visit, and that trip constituted his first trip out of his home country. After spending about a week with me, he took off to see the rest of the country by himself, with no Japanese language skills, and very little world travel experience to draw upon. I was impressed with his new found intrepid nature, just as I was thankful that Japan gave him a wonderful first experience traveling abroad.

-Stephanie Boegeman (Akita-ken, Noshiro-shi, 2006-09)

Aomori

I took my parents up through Tohoku to experience a part of Japan tourists typically don’t see. We hiked Yamadera, shot over to Sendai and Matsushima, went to Hiraizumi, traveled through Aomori up to Sapporo, went over to Onuma Park, down to Hakonodate, and then down to Aomori for a few more days. They loved all of our experiences, from using an onsen and sleeping in a ryokan to learning how to order their own food. My father particularly loves to tell the story about a tiny yakiniku restaurant we stumbled into in Hiraizumi. The owner couldn’t speak English, but he did know at least one word. He came over to my father, put a beer down and said “suds.” From that point on, they were friends. A Buddhist monk sitting a few tables over joined us and invited us to visit his temple the next day. It was an amazing intercultural experience in an ancient town usually overlooked by tourists.

-Abigail McBain (Aomori-ken, Ajigasawa-machi, 2004-06)

All visitors had an amazing visit to Japan. We did lots of traveling and they were able to experience many sights and eat lots of new food! Lots of photos were taken of their time there and we share many happy memories.

-Tania Krikorian (Aomori-ken, Misawa-shi, 2001-03)

All of my guests had a fantastic time exploring a region of Japan that they (nor I) would never have even given a second glance otherwise.

-Aly Woolfrey (Aomori-ken, Tsugaru-shi, 2005-08)

Because of JET I found my wife.

-John Marshall (Aomori-ken, Nanbu-shi, 2000-03)

My town has had an exchange program between middle schools with Bath, Maine for many years. I actually believe that this exchange may have brought about the JET program in my town, and not the other way around. The program usually brings about 19 kids, and about 6 adults (some are political figures). I’m not sure if the program is still continuing as it used to due to gappei (merge) of towns into a city and various budget cuts. As for myself, I have had a friend visit from the USA for about 2 weeks.

-Barbara Trevor (Aomori-ken, Shariki/Tsugaru-shi, 2002-05)

Chiba

Yes, all of my visitors would never probably have visited Japan were I not there for the JET Programme. They had a fantastic experience with my Japanese friends and in their small way I am sure did much for Anglo-Japanese relations! Long live the JET Programme!

-Jennifer Okubo (Chiba-ken, Inzai-shi, 2000-01)

The visitors listed below for Chiba Prefecture are the only ones I had WHILE I was on the JET Program. But as a direct result of my JET experience, I eventually wound up living in Japan, where I am now officially a permanent resident and have been a Japanese taxpayer for many years. The other visitors came during my subsequent periods of residence in Saitama and Tokyo. Moreover, I have worked as a staff writer for The Daily Yomiuri from 2001 to the present, where my assignments have included visting and writing travel articles about places in Hyogo, Okayama, Nagano and Aichi prefectures. As a freelancer, I also wrote a travel article about Tochigi Prefecture for the St. Petersburg (Florida) times, a travel article about Tokyo for the Continental Airlines inflight magazine, and a cover article about locations across Japan related to Yukio Mishima for The Out Traveler magazine. On top of that, I cowrote the luxury travel guidebook Tokyo Chic and contributed sections to three different editions of the Time Out Tokyo guidebook. I doubt very much that anyone ever decided to visit Japan based solely on something I have written, but on the other hand I assume that my writing — which would never have happened if not for JET — must have at least contributed to some people’s travel plans. So I assume that I have had a much larger total impact on Japanese tourism than the numbers below would indicate.

-Tom Baker (Chiba-ken, 1989-99)

Ehime

After my best friend and her boyfriend visited for two weeks, she applied and was accepted to the JET Programme. She lived in Miyazaki-ken for one year.

-Sara Davidson (Ehime-ken, Matsuno-shi, 2004-06)

My parents and two brothers came for ten days during their winter break. And my mom just told me last night that she doesn’t want to go more than two-and-a-half months at a time without seeing me. She is going to be spending a lot of money over the next few years in Japan.

-Ian Prince (Ehime-ken, Imabari-shi, 2010-11)

All enjoyed it. Food and climate were the two biggest problems. The language barrier was also more pronounced away from Honshu. Also, obviously a lot of the prices were a little difficult for people to swallow. General helpfulness on Honshu especially (though they only went to Shikoku and Honshu) was a big positive for them.

-Mark Boyle (Ehime-ken, Imabari-shi, 2010-2011)

I might never have traveled in Japan had I not come on JET.  And my family members definitely wouldn’t have. It’s very far from South Africa and expensive because our currency is weak, so this has been a unique chance for all of us to see Japan.

-Ingrid Strasheim (Ehime-ken, Uchiko-jo, 2008-11)

They loved Tokyo. Two additional friends may be visiting japan this year, something they likely wouldn’t have considered had it not been for me being here.

-Safiyya Goga (Ehime-ken, Matsuyama-shi, 2009-11)

It made a big impression on my parents – mainly in terms of the people. They came twice and plan to go again. One other friend was also particularly inspired by it and says that she and her now husband will go there together to see more. She was more inspired by the culture and the sights.

-Rebecca Budd (Ehime-ken, Saijo-shi, 1997-2000)

My sister was THRILLED my friends drove her to another prefecture to see cherry blossoms and have hanami. She also LOVED Kyoto despite thinking she’d like Osaka much more. It was an AMAZING, unforgettable trip for us both!

-Stacy Yanagawa (Ehime-ken, Komatsu-cho, 2003-06)

My father came to Japan as a direct result of me living here. Before I became a JET my family knew Japan was famous for its automotive industry and sushi. They had a vague association of Japan having cheap technology as well. Since I`ve started living in Japan, my entire family has become more interested in Japanese culture through Ikebana, films, environmental innovation and music. For example, my father has a background in music and when he came to visit my school he began an impromptu jazz session with two of our teachers using trumpet, cello, and piano. Everyone loved it!!

-Rachel Monnin (Ehime-ken, Uwajima-shi, 2009-11)

Fukui

All of my visitors loved Japan and would visit again. They especially liked their time in Fukui, a place they never would have visited had I not been there.

-Amiena Mahsoob (Fukui-ken, Fukui-shi, 2005-08)

Other prefectures to which my guests traveled while in Japan: Hiroshima-ken, Kagawa-ken, Tokushima-ken, Kyoto-fu, Osaka-fu, Tokyo-to, Ishikawa-ken, Ibaraki-ken

-Kristi Jamrisko (Fukui-ken, Ono-shi, 2002-05)

One of the people who originally came to Japan to visit me ended up deciding to stay and work as an English teacher. She worked here for three years.

-Jody Godoy (Fukui-ken, Fukui-shi)

I had my daughter in Japan so that brings my parents across almost every year. They came once before her birth, then at the birth and then they come over on her birthdays, each time for about 3 weeks in total. Even though they don’t speak Japanese (though they are picking up the baby talk), they are really comfortable travelling around Japan by themselves. My father has even started talking about possibly buying an apartment in Japan after retirement and living part of the year here (if my husband and I are able to make our lives here permanent) so they can spend more time with their grand-daughter.

-Bronwen MacDonald (Fukui-ken)

Something that has really surprised me is the amount of interest my family and friends have in Japanese cultural events in the States. So even the people who didn’t have a chance to actually go to Japan still make the effort to go to Japanese festivals, special exhibits at the museums, etc. because I lived in Japan.  Right after Japan I went to graduate school and have been working in higher education (Career Services, more specifically) ever since. I always speak of my time in Japan very fondly and, although I don’t have a quantifiable number, I know my stories of Japan have had significant influence on my students.

-Helen Godfrey (Fukui-ken, Fukui-shi – 1996-98)

Fukuoka

Four people visited Japan specifically because of me while I was a JET, but at least a dozen more were encouraged to apply to the JET program, travel to Japan, or study Japanese and/or Japanese culture after hearing about my experiences. This secondary effect is potentially much more extensive than the effects of the direct visits because it will continue to have an impact through the rest of the JET participants’ lives upon return.  It fulfills the intent of the JET Program, and it should certainly be included inconsideration of  the future of the JET Program.

-Frank Luo (Fukuoka-ken, Iizuka-shi, 1997-99)

As a Japanese teacher, I have taken a total of 85 students and parents to Japan on two separate trips. I have also advised another student who went on his own with a companion after he graduated high school. Additionally, through a JET participant at the time, I coordinated a pen pal exchange between the ALTs students studying English and my students studying Japanese.

-Catherine Miller-Fisco (Fukuoka-ken, Fukuoka-shi, 1993-95)

All of the people who visited me probably wouldn’t have visited Japan had I not been there. They all had a fantastic time when there were in Japan.

-Chris Woodward (Fukuoka-ken, Iizuka-shi, 2005-08)

Both of my visitors were and still are keen practitioners of aikido. They continue to teach the martial art and will be regular visitors to Japan, also inspiring others to travel there. Without my JET experience I wouldn’t have been able to take them to Japan. I am now a British Airways pilot flying regularly to Tokyo so I could perhaps write a figure of several thousand visitors in box 1!

-Darren Tostevin (Fukuoka-ken, Omuta-shi, 1990-91)

My cousin enjoyed his study abroad trip immensely. He started to study Japanese in high school while I was on the JET program and hope to return to Japan for further study.

-Melissa Fabros (Fukuoka-ken, Kurume-shi, 2004-06)

Fukushima

From an economic point of view, the JET Programme has helped give language and cultural training to many of the professionals I see in local branches of Japanese banks, companies in London and no doubt throughout the world. Looking at the immediate economic impact, my guests spent a lot of money touring the major sites, but spent a majority of their budget where I was locally based on meals, tours, souvenirs, etc. Not only that, but I would say that that 97% of my wages went back into the Japanese economy in the form of taxes, living expenses and upon leaving JET towards study at university in Tokyo. I brought very little yen back with me!

-Douglas Williams (Fukushima-ken, Yugawa-shi, 2000-03)

While they were here we traveled all over the place. They flew into Tokyo, we stayed there a few days, visited Disney Sea, climbed Fuji and then they came up to Iwaki and spent the other half of the trip there.

-Jessica Kling (Fukushima-ken, Iwaki-shi – 2007-10)

I have often thought about the economic impact of JET on Japanese tourism. Countless relatives and friends visited every JET I knew during my time there!

-Shawn McCarthy (Fukushima-ken, Iwaki-shi – 2003-06)

Gifu

Because of my time as a JET, I have returned as a tourist to Japan twice, bringing friends and family with me each time. I will continue to return to Japan to visit the very dear friends I made in my community.

-Kathy Crutcher (Gifu-ken, Mizuho-shi, 2000-01)

Now a teacher, in a British Secondary School I am already running a Japan Club and seeking to create links between my school and schools in Japan. In the medium-term I hope to arrange a summer trip to Japan for my students.

-Edward Tothill (Gifu-ken, 2006-08)

Gumma

I don’t know the best way to do this, but I would love to also be able to measure JET travel within Japan. For example, I traveled from Gunma to Kyoto twice, once with visiting friends and once on my own and I know a lot of other JETs when I was there traveled pretty extensively, not to mention day or weekend trips to onsen towns and ski resorts. Maybe a way to capture this type of thing would be to create a survey for JET participants and send it out twice a year. You could try to get a random sampling of JETs across Japan and from there you could calculate the total impact. I would also love to track how often alumni recommend the JET Program and travel to Japan. At my holiday party last night I recommended both travel to Japan and the JET program specifically. I wonder if we could get a sampling of volunteer alumni to over the course of a year track the number of times they make these types of recommendations.

-Bahia Simons-Lane (Gunma-ken, Numata-shi – 2005-07)

Hiroshima

They were very impressed with how helpful the Japanese airports were. They had many problems in America which caused them to arrive late and miss their flight to Hiroshima. And their luggage was left in America! The staff at Narita airport really helped them, so they were able to enjoy a night at a hotel in Tokyo and a morning flight from Haneda, with luggage delivery to my apartment arranged. They enjoyed the public transportation and opportunities to visit Osaka, Kyoto, and Hiroshima. They also really liked getting to see my island, the surrounding towns, and one of my schools. They enjoyed seeing what life was like for me, and I know that my brother’s friend is seriously considering applying for JET.

-Monica Gilbert (Hiroshima-ken, Onomichi-shi, 2008-10)

My visitors included a former co-worker of mine and her husband. Because we were able to serve as tour guides in a sense during their stay in Hiroshima, they were able to have a much richer experience in the city than they would have otherwise, visiting places and dining at eateries off the beaten path. I loved that we were able to share this more intimate parts of Japan with them. They had a wonderful impression of Japan, and my friend blogged about their trip to share with all her friends, family and other readers. Visitors were Joe’s sister and work colleague. Both are teachers in Indiana. Joe’s sister was so determined to come visit us in Japan that she secured some grants and professional development funding through her school board to make a trip to China, Japan and Saipan. Their goal ultimately is to share these international experiences with their students and bring a more multi-cultural flair to some of their lessons. During our stay in Japan Gail coordinated with Jenny to do a pen pal exchange between our students. This really helped to enrich their classroom experience. Definitely an exciting opportunity for all our students that they might not have had otherwise.

-Gail Meadows (Hiroshima-ken, Hiroshima-shi, 2007-10)

Hokkaido

Two friends who visited me loved it so much, that they returned again. Let’s not forget as well all the revenue that is generated from us traveling with our friends and our own individual travels. Much of the money we are paid goes right back into the Japanese economy.

-Jennifer Lindberg (Hokkaido, Sunagawa-shi, 2005-10)

My parents visited me individually at different points during my career in Hokkaido. I also invited several Japanese and non-Japanese friends from Honshu up to Hokkaido on many an occasion. During the Sapporo Yuki Matsuri each year, Hokkaido AJET (HAJET) organizes a Yuki Matsuri hosting program for friends and family of JETs who come to visit from Honshu and overseas. HAJET books clubs and restaurants, hosts organized tours, and generally helps these guests (who number in the dozens or more) have a great experience during the Festival.

-Caroline Cronshaw (Hokkaido, Iwamimaza-shi, 2006-09)

I had visitors both years I was there during Golden Week. We not only toured Hokkaido, but took the ferry down to Honshu and toured all over Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima. My parents said Japan was a place they never thought about visiting until their daughter moved there and they left with a decidedly positive view of the country.

-Megan McKnight (Hokkaido, Kutchan, 2003-05)

My fiance and I have already gone back to Japan for a two week vacation. We love Japan and will continue to visit it periodically for the rest of our lives. We enjoy our trips to Japan because we feel like we have an insider perspective-we know a few tricks of traveling-all because of my time in the JET program.

-Cori Hallock (Hokkaido, Toyako-shi, 2007-08)

I think there is also an indirect tourist effect- since I’ve left Japan I’ve had at least 4 friends who have gone to visit based on my experiences. I also know that as soon as I have enough money and vacation days I will be going back!

-Carrie Bradish (Hokkaido, Sapporo-shi, 2005-07)

Half of the people who came to Japan would have never ever ever come if it had not been for the personal connection of myself being posted there on JET. This was their introduction to Asia as a whole and they were able to get very personal experiences due to my living there and my community connections. JET essentially allowed 5 of my friends to experience Japan in a very personal light that encouraged those same five people to spread the word on what a wonderful country it is.

-Jessyca Wilcox (Hokkaido, Urahoro-cho, 2003-06)

My parents visited me in July this year, despite having been to Japan three times before. They told me that they never would have travelled to Hokkaido had I not been posted there. It is much cheaper to simply visit Honshu (it seemingly has everything Hokkaido has!) The same was said by the friends (both Japanese and foreign) who visited me – that North-East Hokkaido was just too far out of the way to travel unless there was someone to visit and show (read: drive) them around. North-Eastern Hokkaido has no train lines and a very expensive, infrequent bus “service” – so knowing someone with a car and knowledge of the area is a huge draw for potential tourists. They loved the food, scenery and (those that came during winter) the snow. They all said that they would love to return, but wouldn’t because I have since left JET and it would be very difficult to travel around and have the same experiences (through my connections, language abilities, money saved on accommodation/transport etc). People in my town loved meeting my parents and friends (at schools, festivals and my eikaiwa), and for many (including two of my JTEs), they were the first non-ALT foreigners that they had ever met. As my parents have zero Japanese ability, it was interesting to see my students attempt to communicate with them. Too often, my students relied on my understanding of Japanese to be understood. Having real tourists to communicate with taught them that they can`t fall back on their Japanese when faced with communication problems.

-James Stewart (Hokkaido, Shibetsu-shi, 2009-10)

Hyogo

My father and his wife would have never come to Japan had I not been there. Although my dad had an interest in Japan’s role in WWII, primarily due to the History Channel, he never had an interest in the country and its people. This changed when I began JET and he found himself following news about Japan as well as talking to Japanese people near his work about his son working and living in Japan. He told me that he was grateful that I lived in Japan, because even if he had a prior interest, he would have never come. The thought of a “personal tour guide” with a vested interest in Japan was the reason he chose to visit.

-Scott Dixon (Hyogo-ken, Sasayama-shi, 2007-10)

All of my visitors were impressed with Japanese hospitality and wanted to return. Some have returned for tourist trips even after I left Japan.

-Omoladun Tyehimba (Hyogo-ken, Takarazuka-shi, 2005-08)

As a JET I had several opportunities to have friends and family visit Japan, but more importantly, since returning from the program and in my position as an educator, I have had many opportunities to both visit Japan as a researcher and tourist, and to encourage others to do the same. My estimate of 75 people at 20 days of visiting is approximate, but probably fairly conservative. Each year my family of four spends the summers in Japan, so that alone counts for considerable time for foreign travel and tourist dollars.

-David Rands (Hyogo-ken, Himeji-shi, 1996-2003)

Ishikawa

I inspired two friends to visit Japan, and they both loved it so much they moved there, where they stayed for 3 years each (although they worked in Tokyo and Osaka, not in Ishikawa-prefecture). Of course, they, in turn, had many more friends and family visit. I have returned to Japan twice after JET because it is a country and culture I truly love. And I continue to remain involved in JETAA activities, in the Japan-America Society, and in speaking highly of Japan and the JET experience wherever I go! I serve as a resource for those who are curious about Japan, and I always tell everyone who asks that they should definitely go to Japan!

-Carmel Morgan (Ishikawa-ken, Tatsuruhama-machi, 1993-95)

Iwate

My parents participated in the local annual festival. A year later, my brother did the same thing. My sister made two trips to visit me while I was in Japan, and on one trip met up with me and my Board of Education workmates for a trip in Tokyo where she enjoyed a dinner on a Sumida-gawa river boat. A friend I’ve known since Junior high visited and tried karaoke, sake and many Japanese foods for the first time. She never would have visited Japan if it were not for my being there, and the trip opened her eyes to new experiences and she says she’d like to go back sometime. An avid Disney fan, the trip to Tokyo Disneyland was one of the highlights. My cousin and her boyfriend who visited also enjoyed Tokyo Disneyland as well as a relaxing visit in inaka. One Austrian couple (photographer and flight attendant) would have visited Japan anyway (so I did not count them in my total above), but were only bold enough to rent a car to travel from Tokyo up to Iwate at my suggestion and reassurance that Japan is a very safe place to travel and that many road signs are written in romaji (i.e., English lettering). They were eager to experience many things and the photographer took many photos back to his country including beautiful photos of Japan’s landscape, architecture and people. It is important to understand the value to Japan’s tourism of having JET hosts who will encourage tourists to stay long and explore deeper into Japan than they might if they traveled to Japan on their own. JETs are ambassadors of Japan even while still living there. Lastly, since I left Japan in 1999, I have returned twice as a tourist to reconnect with friends and also to travel to places I had not reached while on the JET program. I plan to return again this Spring and have no doubt I will return again. I am currently a member of a local taiko group in Philadelphia, and one of our group’s goals is to travel to Japan someday on a taiko learning trip.

-Therese Stephen (Iwate-ken, Esashi-shi/Oshu-shi, 1996-99)

Kagoshima

I was very fortunate that so many of my friends and family were able to visit me in Japan. They all had a fantastic time, and we received wonderful hospitality from the Japanese friends that I had made in Kagoshima. We were treated to the most amazing home-cooked meals, encouraged to help pick oranges in my neighbour’s orchard, try calligraphy for the first time, go sea kayaking, try taiko drumming (on the second largest drum in Kagoshima prefecture!), and visit a local nursery school. With one exception, I don’t think any of my friends or family would have had the confidence to visit Japan had I not been living there, but now that they have been there at least once, I think they would all be confident enough to travel there independently. It certainly seems that Japan has a very special place in all of their hearts, thanks to their many positive experiences there.

-Kim Woodruff (Kagoshima-ken, Kagoshima-shi, 2003-06)

My godparents came to visit. They said that they would never have visited Japan without me being there.

-Ian Robinson (Kagoshima-ken, Aira-shi/Yoshimatsu-shi, 1996-2000)

My mom was impressed by the amount of greenery even in the cities and how everyone kept everything so clean. FYI, I can add 5 people to this tally if you include my non-JET time in Japan.:)

-Joel Dechant (Kagoshima-ken, Makizono-cho, 2001-04)

Three of those visitors bought JR passes. Had two additional visitors who were in Japan for another reason, but used transportation to come down from Tokyo to Kagoshima via plane or shinkansen. With all of these visitors combined a total of more than 10 prefectures were visited.

-Sarah Lyons (Kagoshima-ken, Kajiki-cho, 2007-09)

Kanagawa

My best friend came to Japan to visit me and also visited other cities in Japan where she had friends and acquaintances.

-Ilonka Oszvald (Kanagawa-ken, Yokohama-shi, 1996-98)

Kochi

I think Japan is a country not many British people know much about beyond stereotypes of sushi and high-tech electronics and not really seen as a natural destination for most tourists so I think it needs to do everything it can to promote itself. I know my mum has encouraged some of her more adventurous friends to visit since she came to visit me and the ones that have been have really enjoyed it and commented that it was not like they expected.

-Peter Sutcliffe (Kochi-ken, Monobe-shi, 2001-03)

My family got to experience a part of Japan they never would have been able to had I not been on the JET program. I introduced my family to my students and coworkers at school, they were able to participate in local festivals and get to know people at the grass roots level. They were able to get a glimpse of the myriad experiences available to JET participants in their time in Japan. It is something worth sharing!

-Sasha Bleus (Kochi-ken, Tosa-cho, 2010-11)

Several of these visitors (at least 5) had previously stated absolutely no interest in visiting Japan…it took quite a bit of convincing on my part to get these individuals to come. In the case of one, a senior citizen friend from England, it just seemed so un-knowable and far beyond her comfort zone. But she loved it once she arrived. The other four, a Philippine-American family who are friends here in the US, were previously very anti-Japanese due to experiences their grandparents’ generation suffered during WWII. They couldn’t understand how I would possibly want to move to Japan on JET. But they kept in touch the entire two years, and finally – just one month before I returned – they agreed to come for a visit. They fell in love with the people and the country, their prejudices were totally erased. Even now, three years later, they are still talking about Japan…only now it is in terms of how wonderful and warm the people are and how we should all live up to these standards of hospitality. A total about-face!

-Margie Banin (Kochi-ken, Motoyama-cho, 2005-07)

Visiting my rural prefecture was my Dad’s favourite part of his trip. The two people who came to visit me probably would never have visited Japan if I hadn’t been there to visit. I came back after a year breaking even financially having spent my whole wage travelling around Japan. The money the Japanese government is spending on JET often goes straight back into their economy. And not just touristy places but everyday places like supermarkets, etc. too.

-Rachel Stempien (Kochi-ken, Susaki-shi, 2009-10)

All of my visitors said that they enjoyed touring around Kochi the most because that was where I lived and I had the opportunity to give them an insider’s view.

-Anne Gayner (Kochi-ken, Nankoku-shi, 2007-10)

I think I was responsible for a lot of domestic tourism too – I managed to attract a few people down to Kochi – not enough though, unfortunately. I think everyone should visit Kochi!

-Louis Bravos (Kochi-ken, Tosashimizu-shi – 2007-10)

Kumamoto

My parents’ dining room is now decorated in a Japanese style, influenced by their visit and the beautiful artworks. My parents, not well-travelled people, felt comfortable and welcome traveling unaccompanied in Japan, and they loved the punctual, reliable trains. My friends loved the whole onsen experience as well as the hot sands in Beppu.

-Claire Pogue (Kumamoto-ken, Yamaga-shi, 1997-99)

Since I have spent time in Japan I regularly recommend places others can go in Japan. I have re visited Japan and Kumamoto two times since for my holidays.

-Liz Saunders (Kumamoto-ken, Matsuri-machi, 1995-97)

Some gray area answers: I host “couchsurfers.” These are low budget travelers. This may not be a benefit to the hotel industry, but they do go to tourist attractions and events, buy souvenirs, and eat at restaurants. If I were not hosting them, they would probably move on more quickly in their travels, and often without my suggestions, they might not go to famous sites. I have taken at least seven people to Kumamoto Castle alone. I have hosted a lot of couchsurfers, maybe around 20. I can’t say that I brought these people to Japan, but I can with some certainty claim that I have increased the duration of their stays. Similarly, on couchsurfing.com, and similar travel sites, JET program members, among others, are likely to answer questions about travel in Japan that help people to formulate plans that increase their likelihood of coming to Japan. I have answered questions about transportation, festivals, local specialties, customs, and more. A whole lot of people love yuzu goshou because of me! Notably, I have helped vegetarians, vegans, people with allergies, Hindus, and Muslims to be able to communicate their dietary restrictions in a polite and effective way. Next, I have helped a lot of JETs and foreigners with interprefectural travel, especially between Kumamoto Prefecture and Nagasaki Prefecture, where I used to live before I became a JET. While perhaps beyond the scope of this questionnaire, certainly a weekend in Kagoshima, as one fellow arranged with my help, creates a greater amount of tourist revenue than a weekend he might have spent in his pajamas with his Playstation 3. Finally, I married and had a baby here, so that’s one little person who wasn’t in Japan before and is in Japan now because of me! (^-^)v

-Eric Kaulfuss (Kumamoto-ken, Kumamoto-shi, 2008-13)

Kyoto

My parents’ visit to Japan was my father’s first ever trip outside the US. It was especially memorable for him because he had never experienced another culture first-hand. It was also particularly memorable for my mother because the visit was the first time she had returned to Japan after studying there for one year as a university student in the early 1970s. She was pleasantly surprised to find that she could remember quite a bit of the language despite having not used it for over 30 years.

-Brooke Paul (Kyoto-fu, Mizuho-cho, 2003-06)

My Japanese friends and “parents” (locals who generously took me into their lives) treated my visiting boyfriend, relatives, and friends as well as they treated me. When I was at school teaching, they would drive them around to the local sights, treat them to onsen sessions, and often invited us into their homes for meals. My students would run into them in the city (they obviously did not look Japanese) and try to speak English with them.  At one point they even got a soccer game going. Their generosity and friendliness definitely left a significant impression, and even years later, we still talk about it. I am still writing New Years postcards to many people I met in Japan and continually send photos and presents to stay in touch.

-Laurie Cheung (Kyoto-fu, Miyazu-shi, 2006-07)

My mother had a wonderful experience in Japan as she had never been outside Europe before. I asked my adult English students to take my mum out for the day while I was at work as a way to improve their English and for my mum to hang out with Japanese ladies who were her age too. This was a great way to help my students build their confidence with speaking English and I could build lessons and activities around this. As my mum is a teacher of the deaf, my school were happy to let me and my mother to teach a lesson together which really helped the students to learn more about sign language, deaf culture, the UK and have a mother and daughter teaching combo! Every visit for my friends was a memorable one and they all commented on how magical it was to visit Japan, especially as they had someone who lived there and could be their personal guide. I think the JET Programme is also important to domestic tourism as many JETs travel all over Japan during their stay to meet other JET’s and see the country.

-Ilona Brannen (Kyoto-fu, Kyoto-shi, 2006-08)

All of my visitors had a wonderful experience in Japan. They still talk about their trips to this day. Several of them have become more interested in Japanese culture since visiting, and they say they’d love to travel there again. I think that the JET Program has a HUGE impact on the tourism industry in Japan. Every other JET I knew had multiple friends and family members visit during their stay in Japan.

-Sarah Tillotson (Kyoto-fu, Kyotanabe-shi, 2006-08)

Not only did my parents enjoy seeing Japan, but so did I. I visited major cities, but living in Japan also allowed me to take time to travel to more out of the way/lesser known places! I think being on the JET Programme helps foreigners, i.e,. AETs and CIRs, bring tourism to places all over Japan and not just the main tourist sites!

-Christine Skodon (Kyoto-fu, Kyoto-shi, 2008-10)

Mie

JET was a fantastic experience. Have been back to Japan many times since (going skiing there later this month), so am still contributing to the Japanese economy – very unlikely I would have done this if I hadn’t done JET.

-Peter Horton (Mie-ken, Daio-machi, 1997-99)

Every person that came to Japan to visit me absolutely loved the experience. I took family members and friends all over Honshu, and everyone loved it so much that each person expressed an interest in going back to Japan even if I wasn’t there.

-Anthony Waldman (Mie-ken, Yokkaichi-shi, 2005-09)

My dad visited school and took part in some classes, thanks to coordination with the principal and staff. We also traveled around Kansai and spent loads of cash (if that is relevant).

-Dan Traylor (Mie-ken, Ise-shi, 2007-12)

My friend would not have come to Japan if I wasn’t here to guide her. She is afraid of travelling internationally, but knowing someone could show her around made her comfortable enough to come to Japan. She loved it and plans to return again in 2011.

-Jenn Languay (Mie-ken, Kuwana-shi, 2009-11)

They came to visit me when I studied in Nagoya and we did all the big cities (Kyoto, Tokyo etc) and hated it. This time we rented a car and stayed in the local area. They had a much more positive view of Japan after the trip this time. My brother in particular loved his time so much that I think that he is aiming to be on JET when he graduates.

-Charlotte Steggall (Mie-ken, Ise-shi, 2009-11)

Miyagi

Everyone I knew had a great time in Japan. I was practically a tour guide for my friends when they came to visit me when I was working as a JET. Even after I returned to my home country, I still provide valuable travel tips for my friends who were planning their trips to Japan. I booked hotels and emailed detailed maps for them and also provided information on sightseeing spots and useful Japanese phrases they needed to get by.

-Jacquelyn Pang (Miyagi-ken, Tome-shi, 2003-07)

One friend credits this Japan trip for his later success as a small business owner with a new Japanese client. He leveraged his experiences in japan to create a better connection with the customer, leading to a better business relationship.

-David Fusco (Miyagi-ken, Shiogama-shi, 2003-05)

They loved their time here and were happy that they had someone to show them around (me)… They plan to come back.

-Jeremy Berg (Miyazaki-ken, Gokase-shi, 2007-12)

Nagano

All of my friends and family have been favorably impressed by the courtesy, quality of food, the well-organized traffic, and the fact that infrastructure and pollution are well-managed despite high population density in Tokyo and surroundings. Fashion, food and the music scene in Tokyo offered exciting alternatives for my family and friends coming from New York and Warsaw.

-Christopher Kossowski (Nagano-ken, Saku-shi, 1996-99)

My mother and brother loved Japan. We are planning to come back within the next year.

-Julia Higashio (Nagano-ken, Nakano-shi, 2005-08)

My visitors are people who would not normally have chosen to visit Japan. The only reason they came was to visit me. Now some of them have returned to Japan without me. Another example of how I have brought tourists to Japan: I met my husband when he was traveling the world in 2002. He had many misconceptions about Japan (too expensive, food stereotypes) and did not want to visit. In 2007, he visited Japan, hiked the Japan Alps and now LOVES the country. He tells all of our friends how amazed he was at what a wonderful country Japan is.

-Madeline Stapel (formerly Schmidt) (Nagano-ken, Horigane-mura, 1998-2001)

JET was a wonderful program that really deepened my interest in Japan. I am glad I did it, and that I made lots of Japanese friends in Nagano and elsewhere that I can visit when I go to Japan. I have traveled back to Japan three times to visit Japanese friends I met while on JET. I stayed for 2 months, 2 months and 10 days.

-Ravi Kumar (Nagano-ken, Nagano-shi – 1998-2001)

Nagasaki

I started off all my guests’ trips in Kyoto/Osaka so that they could visit some of Japan’s most famous sites. But they enjoyed visiting my “hometowns” of Nagasaki City, Shimabara, and Unzen even more since this seemed like “real Japan.” Even if they returned to Japan, they would probably never be able to replicate those special experiences, since it’s not easy for tourists to stray from the major tourist areas without a guide. I also took my brother, studying to be an epidemiologist, to visit Minamata. He was able to go back to grad school with a unique report of his visit to the Minamata Disease Museum.

-Christy Jones (Nagasaki-ken, Shimabara-shi, 1995-98)

My time in Japan has absolutely had an impact on others interest in Japan.  Several friends with whom I taught with in Korea after I left Japan eventually visited Japan on my recommendation. I would say that I also encouraged domestic travel as well. I had several friends from “the mainland,” both Nihonjin and gaijin, travel to Tsushima to visit me and explore the island. JET’s influence and impact goes far beyond the classroom.

-Joey Joyce (Nagasaki-ken, Tsushima-shi, 2007-09)

Prior to my becoming an ALT, my fiance had never had any interest whatsoever in visiting Japan. It was only once I went there and started to tell her about the people I had met that she began to read more and educate herself about the country. When she finally came to visit me, she was constantly amazed at how genuinely welcoming and helpful everyone was as well as how easy it was to get around and experience everything that Japan has to offer.

To this day she still tells everyone about her experiences there and how Japan went from the bottom of her “Places to Visit” list to become her favorite country that she’s ever visited. Not only did the JET Programme give my family and friends an amazing opportunity to see what Japan has to offer but it also converted someone who never had given the country a second thought into a vocal volunteer tourism spokeswoman.

-Gregory Blair (Nagasaki-ken, Saikai-shi, 2007-08)

Everyone had a great time. Particularly in Kyoto and riding the Shinkansen. JR rail-pass for tourists is great. Lack of English in more remote places was a problem (Unzen-shi, Nagasaki-ken) for my parents. My father ordered coffee and got spaghetti…not sure how that happened. Good luck with the project and hopefully you can demonstrate the hidden values of JET.

-Benjamin Cole (Nagasaki-ken, Nagasaki-shi, 2006-2011)

My mother and sister visited on one trip. And a friend visited on another. I would say that the overall experience for each of them was great! Of course, the usual complaints about the level of English, and expense of travel came up. But aside from that I think it went over really well. In fact, my mother and sister had never even left North America before that trip, and they were able to make the Narita to Haneda trip all by themselves. I think that is pretty impressive to be honest. One other comment I have is about flights. It seems like there are very very few internal flights from Narita. I understand this is a question of supply/demand, but it seems like more people would be inclined to use Narita (rather than Seoul) if there were more direct flights.

-Dustin Brewer (Nagasaki-ken, Isahaya-shi, 2003-05)

All my visitors loved Kyoto and Nagasaki city the most. I think Nagasaki should promote itself more as a tourist place (not so much as an atomic bomb site) since it has a lot more to offer! The atmosphere, small shops and friendly people were what my visitors remembered the most!

-Sierra Sroka (Nagasaki-ken, Saza-shi, 2008-11)

Through my experience on the JET program, I have influenced many to come and visit, but probably more to get jobs dealing with Japan. Their perceptions of the Japanese people greatly changed and as a result sought either companies in Japan, or companies that deal directly with Japan. I can think of about 20 people that have sought careers dealing with Japan directly due to interaction with me and my experiences on the JET program.

-Jeff Albright (Nagasaki-ken, Nagasaki-shi,1995-98)

I returned to Japan four years later on vacation with a friend to show him how wonderful Japan was and to meet some of my Japanese friends. Japan has left a lasting smile and I”m currently looking to move back and even thinking of making it my home.

-Carlos Venegas (Nagasaki-ken, Futsu-cho – 1997-2000)

Three friends at different times.  Friend #1 stayed for thirty days.  Friends #2 and #3 stayed for 14 days.  One friend met his future wife getting soup in a restaurant.

-Thomas Fernandez (Nagasaki-ken, Katsumoto-cho/Nagayo-cho, 2007-09)

Nara

One of the best things about my time as a JET was showing friends and family around Japan. However in addition to the people who visited directly, I think I had more impact introducing my experiences to a wide range of people via Facebook/e-mails. I wrote extensive e-mails about my travels, the events we ran in Nara prefecture, matsuri, etc. and sent them to a list of around 100 people. The majority of the people who read those e-mails did not know anything about Japan, but quite a few of them have since been to visit. Lots of people have asked for my advice since I have been back in London, to help them plan their trips to Japan. Several people have not yet visited Japan, but they have told me that they plan to go one day after hearing all of my stories or seeing photos. Being part of the JET Programme meant I spent time in less obvious tourist destinations. I am really glad that I could guide people to some of southern Nara’s beautiful mountains, onsen and temples It has worked the other way as well! Several of my Japanese friends have been to visit me in the UK. They always bring beautiful Japanese-y gifts, so in a way their trips also help the Japanese economy.

-Josy Audigier (Nara-ken, Nara-shi, 2006-08)

My time in Japan was pre-JET. I spent two years working in the Prefectural Board of Education in Nara-ken as a Monbusho English Fellow (MEF) beginning in 1979. During my two years in Nara, both of my parents visited me as did my sister plus a friend. Later, after returning to my home in California, marrying, having children, etc., two of my daughters visited Japan and stayed with friends in Nara as well as in other regions of Japan. Several of my Nara friends have visited my home in northern California over the years, most recently this past August. I organized homestay experiences for over 75 Japanese junior through college age students in El Dorado County, California, then several of my American host families visited the Japanese students they had hosted. When my eldest daughter, Olivia Luna, spent a year in Nara as a JET ALT, I returned to Japan to visit her in 2009 and to see dearest friends I hadn’t seen in nearly 30 years, when I had been an MEF. So I think the estimated number of tourists just my stay in Nara generated is very modest (10) as well as the number of tourist days these tourists stayed in Japan (150). While I understand that the financial bottom line is very important in justifying future support for the current JET program, the ripple affect of the interpersonal impact is far greater and more profound, I think. The two most meaningful and defining experiences of my life thus far have been the two years I lived and worked in Nara and raising my four children. I wonder if anyone has an idea of how many second generation JET ALT (such as my daughter) there have been? I have many stories and insights post-JET/MEF I could to share if needed. Feel free to contact me if interested in further input. Thanks and good luck!

-Shane Taber (MEF Nara-ken, Nara-shi, 1979-81)

I met my husband in Japan and now we return every year to visit family. I have a large network JET of friends in the UK all of whom were my friends in Japan. We regularly get together and take part in JET alumni events, continuing to promote Japan and Japanese culture. The JET programme changed my life in so many ways and I will always have a connection with Japan. I am a primary school teacher and I often teach the children in school about Japan. I know at least one of my ex-pupils has visited Japan with her family, and two of my ex-pupils keep in touch with pen friends I arranged for them while I was there. Most children I have taught haven’t finished school yet, so I know there is still huge potential for them to visit Japan. I’m sure I sparked interest in many of them! This is just the start… The JET programme has a butterfly effect. It should never end.

-Hannah Yates (Nara-ken, Gojo-shi, 2004-07)

Niigata

I had heard about all sorts of difficulties vegetarian ALTs had settling in to Japan, so I was a little worried when a vegetarian friend of mine came to visit.  After five days of my drilling her with phrases that would help her order meat-free food, she and her companion ventured off to Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima for a week. They had no problems and were really impressed with how the restaurants were able to cater for her special dietary requests. They were also really impressed with the variety of food offered (tofu, seasonal / mountain veggies, tempura, etc.) that were appropriate for vegetarians. Another example of excellent service in Japan, going that extra mile to satisfy the customer! (On another side note, I’ve been pining for a visit back to Japan since I left and have managed to persuade my family to come with me after Golden Week this year. Assuming everyone can make it, that will be another 4 people spending a total of 48 days tourist travel in Japan!)

-Martin McCloud (Niigata-ken, Tokamachi-shi, 2004-09)

With every visit from my friends and family that came from the US, we toured Nagaoka, Niigata-shi, Kyoto, Nara and Osaka and Tokyo together especially during festival time. I took one very memorable trip with family to Hiroshima and Miya-jima. Kyoto because it is so big, very cultural and appealed to a wide variety of people with its food, festivals, landscape, shrines, temples, and its main tourist attractions were accessible via a range of transportation (bike rental, bus, train, subway, etc) was always a favorite!

-Denise Escurel (Niigata-ken, Nagaoka-shi, 2002-04)

I made sure to show two of my guests around Niigata, which is not your typical tourist destination–and they loved it even more than Kyoto! Having JETs in locations off the beaten track surely helps those areas.

-Maureen O’Brien (Niigata-ken, Niigata-shi, 2006-08)

Okayama

My parents would never have dreamed of visiting Japan had I not been there. Now they are complete Japan enthusiasts and are really interested in the country and culture. My friends who came to visit still talk about it now and pass this on to other people, encouraging others to visit Japan. Also, thanks to my stories, pictures and news from the 2 years i spent in Japan, my whole network of friends and family have shared my interest in the country. I also organised letter exchanges with my old high school, and at least 20 students has direct contact with Japanese students at my school in Yakage-cho, and have become Japan enthusiasts.

-Annie Barber (Okayama-ken, Yakage-cho, 2007-09)

All visitors particularly enjoyed visiting Kyoto. I recommended accommodations (http://www.shunkoin.com/) at a buddist zen temple with traditional Japanese rooms where you can take tour and meditation class with Reverand Taka Kawakami who is fluent in English having studied in America.  (A fascinating man to talk with!)  All visitors made use of facilities including day-bike-hire and city tours. Top sites: Kinkakuji Goldern Pavilion, Ryoanji Temple with its famous zen rock garden, Nijo Castle and grounds and Shosei-en Garden which is walking distance from Kyoto Station.  The train station is a rather great in itself offering views over the entire city if you make it to the top. Very helpful tourist information was available in Kyoto station with all the maps you need.

-Laura Turner (Okayama-ken, Kumenan-shi, 2007-08)

Friends and family who visited me in Japan made full use of the JR passes I recommended they purchase. Generally they took in most of the usual tourist locals plus areas of Japan that I had visited and found welcoming or entertaining far off the beaten path. In a typical 10 day visit they may have traveled anywhere between Kyushu and Niigata.

-ToShun Campbell (Okayama-ken, Okayama-shi, 1996-99)

Okinawa

My visitors loved Japan and I’ve often heard them refer to it as one of their best holidays. Indeed, they enjoyed their time so much that as a result they now indulge in Japan related activities in this country and  several are considering returning to Japan on holiday.

-Aysha Johnson (Okinawa-ken, Chinen-son, 2002-04)

For all three of [my visitors] it was their first visit to Japan, and they very much enjoyed it. In addition to the three people who visited me from abroad, I’d add that I have recommended Okinawa in the strongest terms to everyone who asks, and I’m sure I’ve caused numerous extra people (at least 5, by my count) to visit Okinawa from mainland Japan who otherwise would not have done so.

-Nick Fraenkel (Okinawa-ken, Izena-son, 2003-05)

My father and brother both got their passports made for this trip. Because I was in Japan, my family knew it was the best opportunity for them to go to a place that they’d probably never visit. They reached out of their comfort zone and found they really loved it! They did touristy things like Tokyo, Kyoto, and the shinkansen, but I think what they liked most was visiting with my junior high students (my mom taught them the words to Edelweiss, which was the class-change bell!) and going out to eat and karaoke with friends from my BOE.

-Amy Boots (Okinawa-ken, Nago-shi, 2008-09)

Saga

Ex-JETs are also great ambassadors for Japan when they return and I personally have encouraged many friends to visit Japan – helped them with booking shikansen passes, planning travel routes, finding places to stay etc. Also have helped friends to find good quality Japanese shops and restaurants in London which are small businesses owned by Japanese people living in the UK – if it wasn’t for me doing this most of them would go to Wagamamas and think they had had an authentic Japanese experience!!! I think this has an indirect beneficial effect for Japan in terms of encouraging interest in visiting the real thing as well as increasing imports.

-Penny Cygan (Saga-ken, Hamatama-cho, 2000-02)

When my parents came to visit – they saw the area where I lived – but we also booked a holiday (flights and hotel) through a Japanese travel-agent – for all of us to go to Okinawa. When other people came to visit – they didn’t just visit me – they also saw other areas of Japan – taking internal flights and staying in hotels along the way.

-Maria Bosco (Saga-ken, Takeo Onsen, 2002-04)

Saitama

My visitors also mingled with both school students and community board English students in cultural exchanges.

-Meredith Torres (Saitama-ken, Hasuda-shi, 2000-02)

One visit involved transportation to and from Kyoto, and all the hotels and food purchase that included. One of the people came half for work, half for pleasure; because I was here and we were able to visit, they extended their trip and I took them to other areas of Japan they never would have gone if I hadn’t been there to show them around.

-Denise Schlickbernd (Saitama-ken, Saitama-shi, 2008-12)

I had nearly 40 friends from college visit me while I lived in Japan from 1988-1993. Additionally more than 15 family members (many for multiple visits).  As a teacher now in the U.S., I know that around 30 of my former students have visited Japan. I also worked with JTB for a two year period which I think moves the numbers way up. Without JET, none of this would have happened.

-Matt Jungblut (Saitam-ken, Oi-machi/Fujimino, 1988-91)

My family and my friend absolutely enjoyed every aspect of Japan. I have more friends from New Orleans coming in July and I am trying to get more to come.

-Jean Perrilliat (Saitama-ken, Ina-machi, 2009-11)

It was for my wedding ceremony. So you can add another 3,000,000 yen spent in the country by my wife and me.

-Robin Singh (Saitama-ken, Ina-machi, 2007-11)

Everyone who has visited me loved Japan. Some came twice, and almost everyone has plans to come back. All but two said they would never have come to Japan if it weren’t for me.

-Bryan Darr (Saitama-ken, Tokorozawa-shi, 2008-13)

Since leaving Japan, I have given two people information and tips for their trips to Japan. One person was inspired by my and my friends’ stories about Japan and decided to make the trip to see for themselves! And, since leaving, I have been back to visit twice in two years.

-Kendall Murano (Saitama-ken, Kawaguchi-shi, 2004-08)

My family of 4 came to visit for two weeks – they would never have come to Japan otherwise. My friend also came and said she never would have come on her own and my boyfriend came over 3 times to see me!

-Catherine Haigh (Saitama-ken, Fukaya-shi, 2001-02)

When I left for Japan I had an open invitation to everyone I knew and told them they were welcome to come to Japan at any time. I know many would have never thought about going to Japan, especially my friends.

-Peter Weber (Saitama-ken, Gyoda-shi, 2005-07)

Days in Japan by friends and relatives are not only limited to the time period during which we worked on the JET Program. In the years after, depending on circumstances, the experiences in Japan through the JET time can inspire us to encourage others to visit…including ourselves.

-Benjamin Rosenbloom (Saitama-ken, Kasukabe-shi – 1993-95)

Sendai

Aside from family I planned a honeymoon for a colleague and wife, and an anniversary trip for friends’ parents to Japan. Both involved visiting a few cities and staying in good hotels/ryokans. I am aware that the people whose trips I helped plan have also passed on recommendations to friends who have visited but have no idea of how many, how long etc…

-Frank Dobson (Sendai-ken, Sendai-shi, 1996-99)

Shiga

I’m not sure if this is relevant, but in addition to the three relatives/friends who visited me while I was in Japan, my brother moved to an army base there with his family for two years due to my encouragement. Several of my friends are also interested in visiting there with me as a guide at some point. Also, during my mother’s visit to Japan, she was so impressed with the experience that she expressed a strong desire to return whenever possible. My sister has visited twice and although my brother has since been stationed elsewhere, he fully intends to take his family back in the future.

-M. Erin Tagg (Shiga-ken, Higashiomi-shi, 2006-10)

My guests visited my schools to do a lesson with me when they came. It was a really exciting chance for the students to speak with new people that weren’t just ALTs. I have also known about 7 or 8 JETs through out my time here who have returned to Japan for a vacation with stays ranging from a week or two all the way to three months. It is very hard to track those statistics but they are certainly important.

-Brian Stafford (Shiga-ken, Otsu-shi, 2006-11)

My parents and brother came for my weddding in 2007.We were able to visit lots of places in the two weeks they were in Japan. My younger brother enjoyed it so much he came back to visit a second time.

-Mark Baczynski (Shiga-ken, Omihachiman/Otsu-cho, 2005-10)

Out of the 9 people who came to visit me, 8 of them had never been to Japan before and visiting me was the reason why they decided to finally make the trip. Six people have told me (numerous times) that they definitely plan to go back. (One person already has made a return visit.) Also, if I stayed for an additional year, I’m sure at least a few more people would have come to visit. Two of my friends work for a magazine that has since then featured Japanese places in New York multiple times (coincidence? probably, but still! haha). Not to mention the fact that I plan to visit again- I still have to go to Hokkaido! :)

-Pam Kavalam (Shiga-ken, Nagahama-shi, 2007-09)

I had a friend visit, as well as my father, step-mother and 2 step-brothers during my first year on JET. my one step brother had been to Japan in middle school on a week long exchange program 10 years ago, but really didn’t remember anything. They all had a really good time. My family also all used the JR Rail pass, my friend did not.

-Joanna Blatchly (Shiga-ken, Tsuchiyama-cho, 2009-11)

My dad got a job in Japan in the summer after I had been accepted to JET (just before I left). The reason he went ahead and tried for the position was because I was here. He lives in Kanto by the way. He got here a month after me (August 2009), my mother some months later, and they’ll be here at least until next winter (2011). My brother stayed here for a few months (114 days) and my sister has been between my parents and I since the summer (she’ll be here a year – June 2010 to summer 2011). Though I never would’ve imagined it a year and a half ago, they all ultimately came as a result of me fulfilling my dream to live in Japan and learn Japanese. Now, in addition to myself, Japan will also be a part of their lives forever. My four family members have been here for a combined total of 1283 days (but since my parents live here, and are not on travel as tourists, despite the fact that it was because of JET, I left them and their 882 days out).

-Marcus Hershey (Shiga-ken, Koka-shi, 2009-10)

Two of my visitors came from the U.S., my home country, and they had both been to Japan previously. But my other visitor came from Belgium, and he would never have visited Japan if it weren’t for the fact I’m here!

-Katie Jardine (Shiga-ken, Nagahama-shi, 2007-11)

Every single family member left Japan with a hugely positive opinion of the place, and they are just as connected to the place as I am.

-Mike Brinkman (Shiga-ken, Kinomoto-cho, 2004-07)

Shimane

We had lots of fun traveling around my prefecture (Shimane), to Hiroshima, Osaka, and Tokyo, respectively. I have one visitor right now staying for 25 days, and we will probably hit up Fukuoka. None of my visitors have spent the entire time traveling, so I am not sure that I can count the $100/day estimate, especially since the area I live in has nothing touristy to do, unless you count hiking, which is free. Activities which include traveling only took up about 2/3 of the time.

-Jennifer Kennedy (Shimane-ken, Iinan-shi, 2009-11)

I am an energetic and enthusiastic tour guide, and I majored in Japanese history. As such, I crammed in as much sightseeing as I possibly could in these two trips, especially in Kyoto. My parents and girlfriend actually complained that it was too much for them.We  traveled to: Kyoto, Nara, Kobe, Himeiji, Matsue, Yonago, Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Nikko, Kamakura, Tokyo, Fuji Go-ko and Ise, as well as a few small towns in the Kansai region. My family were all able to use JR passes, but I, living in Japan, had to pay train fares, and to maximize the use of the passes, this meant buying reserved tickets on many a shinkansen or express train, for two very long trips with family.

-Andrew Hill (Shimane-ken, Ama-cho, 2009-11)

Every visitor I’ve had has really enjoyed rural Japan and has been very happy that they made the trek to Masuda. I am also involved in the couch surfing project, and I’ve had several visitors through that. My destination is not as popular as the more urban areas, but once again they are not disappointed when they arrive in Shimane.

-Caroline Ideus (Shimane-ken, Masuda-shi, 2007-2011)

Shizuoka

My parents still talk about the experiences they had visiting me in Japan.  My father in particular.  As a result he still maintains links to Japan and often buys tea directly from a Japanese seller near Uji named Hibiki-an. I myself have returned to Japan as a tourist three times since I finished the JET Programme, one time with a fellow JET alumna, staying 10 days each time. I plan to visit Japan again. I also often encourage my American friends who are interested in visiting Japan to go. One of my co-workers recently went there on vacation, again for about 10 days, and had a wonderful time.

-Rose de Fremery (Shizuoka-ken, Hamaoka-cho, 1998-2001)

Because of the JET Program I fell in love with the culture, language and people of Japan. After returning to the U.S. I became a Japanese teacher. In addition to having my parents visit me twice while in Japan, I have led three trips to Japan with my students. I will be bringing another student group to Japan in June, so the above number will continue to increase.

-Tim Cornell (Shizuoka-ken, Hamakita-shi, 1990-93)

I know my mother, who visited me while I was on the JET program, would never have visited Japan in her life had I not been there. And how she loved it! She has the fondest memories of the trip.

-Leanna Frankland (Shizuoka-ken, Kambara-cho, 2001-02)

Being able to share a country that I love (Japan) with people that I love (my family) was one of the best experiences of my life. My mother still talks about coming to visit me for those two weeks. We were able to explore my town (Hamamatsu) and also Tokyo, Hiroshima and Kyoto. In addition, this was the first time my mother had ever left the United States; she is amazingly proud to say she became a world-traveler when she was in her 50s! This would not have happened if I had not been a JET participant and could confidently share parts of Japan with my family.

-Jennifer Butler (Shizuoka-ken, Hamamatsu-shi, 2001-04)

Tochigi

Seeing my enthusiasm for my JET program experience has indirectly influenced several more friends to come to Japan from the U.S. and other countries. I have even been able to introduce my wonderful “hometown” of Ashikaga to in-laws and friends in Tokyo who would never have gone there otherwise.

-Beth Yamamuro (Tochigi-ken, Ashikaga-shi, 1987-89)

Tokushima

I think JET has a very strong impact on tourism, not only for friends and family members visiting but also in terms of encouraging others to go. Just from incidental conversations during and after my tenure on the program my experience and stories from JET definitely encouraged acquaintances and others to go for it. Also, I’m an elementary school teacher (was qualified prior to JET) and my students all get to hear about my experiences and take part in exchanges that are beneficial to both American and Japanese young people. I think it is immenselt worthwhile for everyone involved!

-Christine Boyle (Tokushima-ken, Anabuki-shi, 2005-07)

My family said they never would’ve thought to visit Japan before I did JET, and since visiting twice couldn’t believe they ever said that because they had the most amazing time. Especially memorable was the opportunity to see village life in Japan and experience Japanese hospitality, something regular tourists rarely get to experience.

-Kirsten Jones (Tokushima-ken, Tsurugi-cho, 2005-07)

All my friends and relatives had a great time and especially enjoyed meeting my students and colleagues and touring the countryside.

-Sara Auffret (Tokushima-ken, Naruto-shi, 2007-10)

There is no way my friends and family would have visited Japan if I hadn’t been there on JET. They fell in love with the country and were eager to explore. We traveled together, seeing Tokyo, Kyoto, Wakayama, Hiroshima, and some islands in the Seto-Inland Sea. They also got a chance to experience small-town Japanese life while staying with me in Tokushima. My brother and sister even danced in Tokushima’s annual O-bon festival, Awa Odori.

-Olivia Nilsson (Tokushima-ken, Tokushima-shi, 2006-08)

Tokyo

My family said they would have never visited Japan if I wasn’t there. They were very impressed with the food, culture and Japanese people, and they still share this view with friends and family today.

-Devon Brown (Tokyo-to, Musashimurayama-cho, 2002-04)

Tottori

For one of my friends, her visit to me in Japan was her first time leaving the US (almost her first time leaving New York), which was pretty amazing. My dad got the royal treatment, a visit to my house from the Mayor, and a welcome party in his honor.

-Clara Solomon (Tottori-ken, Nichinan-cho, 1999-2001)

My parents spent 10 days in Japan during my second year on JET. As a direct result of their visit, they have developed an interest in Japanese culture and already they are planning their next visit to take place during the summer of 2011.

-Thomas McCormack (Tottori-ken, Tottori-shi, 2008-13)

The number I provided, 18 people, is until now. My marriage in Japan next year will bring another 15-20 people to the country, and my permanent living in Japan, thanks to these opportunities provided by the JET Programme, will bring many more. Thank you!

-William Blakely (Tottori-ken, Kurayoshi-shi, 2006-11)

I have returned to Japan five times in the 3.5 years since I left. I spent anywhere from 10 days to 7.5 weeks on each trip and travel from Kyushu to Sendai. It is because of my time as a JET which leads me to return to see friends in Tottori Prefecture and also allowed me to make connections back in the States which has allowed me to make more friends from all over Japan to visit. JETs are the best connection that foreigners have to get the inside info and LOVE for the country. Many people are afraid to go visit Japan because of the language and culture….JETs enable people to get over that fear and have the “courage” to travel there. And I will be returning in the summer with another friend to help him be introduced to the country. Once people can get to Japan they get to meet the wonderful Japanese people and always take home stories of the generosity and beauty they encountered. One of these trips then led to another friend studying in Kyoto and then coming to live in Okayama and continuing the cycle! Also, my home school district started an exchange with a small town in Aichi Prefecture. Administrators, teachers, and middle school students from our district go visit Aichi and Kyoto once a year, and their 3rd year chugakko (i.e., junior high school) students (who use Japanese airline companies, I believe) come to our Chicago suburban town once a year. And it was my cultural connections and knowledge from JET that helped start these trips and help my district understand the process and payoffs of an exchange like this.

-Amy Pinski (Tottori-ken, Tottori-shi, 2005-07)

My parents came every year, bringing my sister along the third time! Plus, friends who took the chance to come visit me while I was on JET.

-Virginie Pinon (Tottori-ken, Misasa-cho, 2005-08)

Toyama

All the people who visited me in Japan said that they never would have if I wasn’t living there. I am constantly promoting Japan as a great tourist destination because I was able to experience real life in Japan through JET. I tell people not only to visit Tokyo and Osaka but less well known areas like Kanazawa, Toyama, and Gifu.

-Awurabena Kessie (Toyama-ken, Osawano-machi, 2005-06)

Wakayama

My mother and her friend visited me for about a week at my home in Nakatsu-mura near Gobo-shi in Wakayama-ken and then traveled by themselves throughout Japan for two weeks after. They went up north to Takayama and down south to Karatsu-shi. They had a wonderful time. They would not have visited Japan if I had not been living there.  My fellow ALTs and I traveled through Japan pretty extensively also. We went to Hiroshima, Kyoto, Osaka, and Kyushu. I would not have traveled to any of those cities if it weren’t for the JET Program.

-Kristy Carter (Wakayama-ken, Nakatsu-mura, 1999-2001)

We went to see Christmas lights at the one house within 100 miles with a lot of lights. The family inside sent out obaa-san to bring us inside so they could practice their English. We ended up spending the next day with two of the people we randomly met that night. It was a wonderful surprise.

-Andy Ernst (Wakayama-ken, Yura-shi, 2009-11)

Many of our friends and my sister flew into Kansai Airport in Osaka. All of them were thrilled with the ease of signs and the convenience of the trains. They were especially happy that so many people helped them even though none of them spoke Japanese. A particularly wonderful story was in Kyoto when some University students asked if our group would like an English tour of Kyomizu Dera. It made the impression of the culture that much more rich.

-Cynthia White (Wakayama-ken, Tanabe-shi, 2009-11)

It’s very interesting to travel around as a JET. For one thing, Japanese people’s surprise at your Japanese level never fades. Even if all you say is “ありがとう”, they think your Japanese is amazing. For me, it’s even more fun to say where I live in Japan. I went to Hokkaido for an intensive Japanese course. I was practicing kanji and wrote my town’s name, “高野山”. The teacher asked if I was a history-buff. When I replied, “no, I live there”, she was shocked and couldn’t get over it!

Also, I constantly run into other JETs from other prefectures or cities while I travel. Many JETs come to my town and I usually run into them at a cafe and we chat about our experiences. Or, you meet them on your way home for the holidays. Currently, there is a former JET living in my town. That was probably the most surprising encounter for me. She moved here to study at the University after I arrived in town. (FYI – I am the only JET/ALT in my town…)

The best part about JET tourism is seeing different places and realizing how far the reach of the JET Programme is. We are spread throughout the country, but we can always find each other!

-Katherine Slupski (Wakayama-ken, Koyasan-shi, 2009-11)

Please don’t get rid of the JET program!  It’s such an amazing thing (despite any  pitfalls and frustrations) and was responsible for so many positive changes in my life and my students’ lives. Throughout my two years in Japan I had the most wonderful experiences and met the kindest people. I went to Japan not knowing a thing about it or a word of Japanese, and left full of so much love (and fairly conversational in Japanese!) for an incredible country with a unique culture.  I think about Japan everyday and cannot wait to go back.

-Kate Clute (Wakayama-ken, Nachikatsura-cho)

Yamagata

My ex-girlfriend stayed with me for the full 90 days of a tourist visa. I counted those days b/c she was in the country and spending money . If that’s not legit, you can pull 90 days off the count. (She stayed for a separate 14 days as a “real” tourist, so you should keep the person count at 5)

-Ian K. (Yamagata-ken, Tsuruoka-shi, 2008-10)

Yamaguchi

All of my friends and family came to Japan because they knew I was there. They were too intimidated by the language and the whole foreignness of Japan to western culture.

-Mark Brandstetter (Yamaguchi-ken, Shuto-cho, 2005-07)

Yamanashi

They LOVED the hot springs and enjoyed checking out the culture each sightseeing spot offered. We all plan to return to Japan again to check out other places. What’s more, their positive experiences have been shared with their coworkers and now those people want to visit Japan too!

-Shirley Dang (Yamanashi-ken, Koshu-shi, 2009-10)

ome of the interesting tidbits and trends together with her own observations.

I find myself lucky enough to be finishing my current interpreting assignment here in Honolulu.  I head home tonight but was able to spend my last afternoon with my local JET friend, who took me to the Don Quijote behind my hotel.  I was expected the kind of zakka they have in Japan, but here it is a full-fledged supermarket stocked with a plethora of Japanese and other goods!

One item I found there that I have never encountered before in Hawaii was Maui Manju.  My friend became visibly excited when she saw it, saying she always brought some home when she visited Maui, but didn’t know they sold it here.  The official name is Maui Crispy Manju, and she said it is different from the typical version of this sweet in that it’s somewhat flaky.  There were a variety of flavors such as sweet potato, but I went for the standard azuki (the Deluxe pictured).   Its texture resembled that of a scone, and the red bean taste was not very pronounced.

Another sweet being sold at a small stand in Don Quijote was taiyaki, but it went beyond your standard red and white bean flavors to offer both a cranberry and a ham/sausage and cheese breakfast version.  As it was already after lunch, I went for the former.  The inside was composed of actual dried cranberries, which was disappointing as I was expecting more of a paste.  However, the taste went well with the taiyaki outside.

It is always interesting to find new foods here that demonstrate how Hawaii has fused disparate culinary cultures.  I look forward to coming back and making my next discovery!

The recent Japan/China conflict came to a resolution quicker than anticipated as it was announced that the Chinese fishing captain will be released today.  He was being held in Okinawa, and a prosecutor there said, “We have decided that further investigation while keeping the captain in custody would not be appropriate, considering the impact on the people of our country, as well as the Japan-China relations in the future.”  However, the case will not be officially closed in order to leave room ‘for some ambiguity that would allow both countries to save face.’  Some in Tokyo showed dissatisfaction with the decision, including conservative governor Shintaro Ishihara who claimed that Japan had caved in to Chinese pressure.  Online communities in both countries were buzzing, with the Chinese side saying “Yatta!” and the Japanese side being more critical.  Things may not be over yet though.  Currently four employees of the construction company Fujita are being questioned by authorities in China after traveling there to prepare for a project to dispose of chemical weapons abandoned in China by the Japanese military during World War II.  They have been charged with entering a military zone without authorization.

Tensions have increased between Japan and China over the former’s prolonged detention of a Chinese fishing trawler captain.  In response, China has put an embargo on shipments of rare earth minerals, which are used for various manufacturing purposes such as solar panel glass and Prius motors.  The conflict has escalated to the point that Chinese Prime Minister Wen Jiabao stepped in early this week to personally demand the captain’s release.  Stay tuned to see how this diplomatic crisis pans out.

I just finished an interpreting assignment where our last destination was New York.  One day we were returning to the hotel from an appointment and the subway suddenly stopped due to a sick passenger.  My client asked what was going on and I explained, feeling like the conductor after saying “We should be moving shortly.”  She made the comment that this kind of delay happens in Japan as well, but is often due to suicides.  I thought she was referring to Tokyo as she is from Hokkaido, but she said that even back home it is an issue.

I was reminded of our exchange this morning when the news showed politicians promoting a spring suicide prevention (自殺防止 or jisatsu boushi) campaign called, 「お父さん、眠れてる？」 (otousan, nemureteru? or Dad, are you sleeping ok?).  Not to make light of a heavy topic, but I like the design of the web page where the father and his school-age daughter are surrounded by sheep with distinctive personalities (Ms. Kawaii, Mr. Cool, etc.), as well as one peacefully at rest.

Below the tagline on the right it reads “Cabinet Sleep Campaign,” indicating that the central government has gotten involved with its citizens’ sleeping habits in an attempt to reduce the suicide rate.  Some of the various attachments on this top page are a suicide countermeasure white paper, suicide statistics and consultation services from various government agencies.  This last one is a list of links that provide resources for assorted mental health issues.  Delving further into the site you can find things like more statistics and information, an explanation of the connection between lack of sleep and depression, and 16 questions regarding sleep answered by the Japanese Society of Sleep Research (i.e. how does Japan’s sleep amount compare to the rest of the world, what are sleeping pills’ side effects).

The webpage also showcases a tv spot which I found interesting for the way it tries to pull at fathers’ heartstrings.  It depicts a father yawning as he looks at his daughter and says, “Come to think of it, I don’t know her keitai mail address.  I don’t know her friends.  I don’t know her boyfriend.”  The daughter breaks in with, “I know!  Dad, you haven’t been sleeping lately, have you?”  As the music starts, a voiceover and a line on the bottom read, “If you haven’t slept well for two weeks, it might be a sign of depression.  Please consult with your personal physician or a specialist.”  At the end the daughter says to her dad, “It’s not good if you don’t know about your body or about me,” and otousan smiles in recognition.

Upon first glance, this seems like a really comprehensive educational and public health campaign that hopefully will help remedy a grave problem.  I am curious as to how much awareness there is of it in the general population, as well as what effect (if any) it has had on the country’s suicide rate (which evidently peaks in March at the end of the fiscal year, hence the timing of the campaign).

I was really happy to hear that Eri Fukatsu (37) won the best actress award at the 2010 Montreal World Film Festival for her performance in the Japanese film Akunin (Villain).  It also features Satoshi Tsumabuki (29) who stars in the title role and is pictured with Fukatsu on the right.  Akunin is a tragic love story based on the novel of the same title, and Fukatsu plays the part of a young woman who runs away with a construction worker (Tsumabuki) who inadvertently killed someone.  It was directed by Lee Sang Il (36), and all three were in attendance at the festival.  Fukatsu is the first Japanese actress to take home the trophy since 1983.

I have liked Fukatsu ever since seeing her in the 2005 drama Slow Dance, which also stars Tsumabuki who is one of my favorites.  In this drama you wonder if their romance is ever going to take off due to the age difference and passivity on both their parts, but overall it is a feel-good love story.   Akunin opens in Japan this Saturday, and I am looking forward to it making its way to the States to see the newest of what this couple with great on-screen chemistry has to offer.

In other news, yesterday’s New York Times had a scathing editorial about Japan’s unstable political situation entitled Japan’s Leadership Merry-Go-Round.  It finishes with the line, “Revolving-door leaders with constantly shifting agendas are not in Japan’s interest — or the rest of the world’s.”  Stay tuned until next week’s DPJ election to choose a new party chief to see if the short-term prime minister pattern plaguing Japan can be broken.

Today’s news did a special investigation on the favorite foods of foreigners visiting Japan.  The results were displayed in an easy-to-read pie chart which showed soba/udon at the top with 20%, sushi and yakitori tied for 18%, ramen at 13%, okonomiyaki at 9% and 22% for other.  The average total amount of money spent on food per day was 3352 yen (about $40 at today’s exchange rate of 84.125 yen to the dollar), thanks to cheap, filling meals like a serving of yakisoba for 200 yen at a local matsuri.  With lodging for 2500 yen per night at a hostel, this allows for a pretty cheap stay in Japan despite the current 円高 (endaka or strong yen).

This survey marked a shift from the popularity of more upscale foods like sushi to more everyday dishes like noodles.  Many foreigners interviewed attributed their interest in ramen to the fact that they had encountered cup ramen in their home countries and wanted to try the real thing (I recently read Andy Raskin‘ s The Ramen King and I: How the Inventor of Instant Noodles Fixed My Love Life, a both painfully honest and entertaining memoir about the author’s quest to overcome his personal problems and meet the inventor of instant ramen, Momofuku Ando).  The news showed gaijin trying tsukemen (ramen but the noodles are separate and you dip them in the soup), monjyayaki and takoyaki, with running color commentary (“She can use chopsticks well,” “He’s sweating profusely”).  They then challenged two Englishmen working on bowls of udon to slurp their noodles to comic effect.

Another section of the news did an International Smiling Grand Prix between representatives from the countries of Japan, Russia, America, Thailand and France.  It was based on a type of Smile Scan technology used in Japan by companies such as KFC to get their employees to improve their smiles.  The scan measures a variety of facial features to give you a score anywhere from 0 to 100%.  Each country’s team had three members, and the final results had the Thai group with the highest combined score at 91% and Japan with the lowest at 46% (in between were Russia followed by the U.S. and France).  But thanks to coaching from an on-site “smile specialist” who was watching the proceedings, the Japan team was able to have a better showing the second time around.

A wacky article from the WSJ about overnight trips between otaku and their virtual lovers to the seaside area of Atami, not far from Tokyo.  Local business such as yakiniku (pictured right) and dessert shops are catering to this new clientele with special menus and promotional products, adding a bit of economic stimulus to this past its heyday region.  Hotels will often charge for two (for up to $500!) despite the fact that half of the couple is virtual, and the men gladly pay.  An Only in Japan story that I hope will be taken in context!

My current travels bring me to Los Angeles, so a trip to Little Tokyo (aka 小東京 or sho Tokyo) was in order.  My first stop was Mikawaya, a (cash-only) sweets shop located in the Japanese village.  As you can see in the picture on the right, they have a colorful selection of mochi.  The top row features fruity and exotic flavors ranging from strawberry, orange, pineapple, melon and blueberry to coconut and chocolate.  They offer bite-sized samples (and let you try as many as you want!), and I enjoyed the coconut and the strawberry.

However, when it came to buying some mochi to take home I decided to stick to familiar favorites.  I opted to go for one each of the peanut butter and taro ($1.15 each), pictured on the left.   The peanut butter on the inside of the former is fairly granular, and its thick mochi outside makes for a substantial snack.  The taro mochi was of the perfect sweetness, and it made me miss the various forms in which you can find this taste in Hawaii.

Always one to comparison shop, I next made my way to (cash-only) Fugetsu-do which is found on little Tokyo’s main street (not far from my favorite restaurant in the area, Daikokuya (I went there for lunch with my current Japanese client, and she said that their hiyashi chuuka was better than any she’s had in Japan!).  I remembered that they had their own version of peanut butter mochi, which comes pre-packaged with six smaller sized mochi ($4).

They are flatter (due to less peanut butter inside) than the ones at Mikawaya, and more uniform in size.  Mikawaya’s are individually wrapped so they have more of a handmade feel than Fugetsu-do’s, which seem more processed.  We head to Santa Fe tomorrow so will taste test Fugetsu-do’s offerings on the plane on the way over!

It’s been a few years since I lived in Japan, but during my various periods in the country purikura played a big part in my life. Purikura stands for “print club” and refers to the sticker pictures often taken with friends that blanket Japan and many malls in the States as well.  I must admit I sometimes didn’t fully understand all the purikura functions available and usually let my Japanese friends take charge, but they seem to have advanced even further these days.  A special on the news this morning took a look at what current purikura machines have to offer.

Three functions were highlighted as being the most sought after by young women, who are the prime target of purikura.  They are big eyes (デカ目 or dekame), skin beautifier (美肌機能 or bihada kinou) and linking to your keitai (携帯との連動性）.  The first option of dekame works with the same technology used for facial recognition in digital cameras.  The subject’s eyes are enhanced to be bigger and rounder than usual (as it often seen in manga), a look women think makes them look cuter.  They took a purikura of the Mona Lisa and tried giving her dekame, and it did indeed soften her image.

The second bihada function offers 16 hues you can select from to ensure beautiful skin in your purikura.  Among them are marshmallow, smooth (subesube) and boiled egg (yudetama), and you can also use this function to remove pimples, moles or anything else you don’t want showing up in the picture.  They did a test by purposely dotting two young women’s faces with a marker to resemble pimples, and sure enough in the final product their skin was almost perfectly clear.  In terms of putting your best face forward (at least in pictures), this seems like a useful tool.

The third feature allows you to send the resulting purikura straight to your keitai via infrared technology.  Back in the day you would get your prints and faithfully put them in your purikura book, but apparently this style of collecting  is not employed as much anymore.  Instead, 63% of female purikura fans take advantage of a function that allows you to send the pictures to your keitai instead of getting a printout.  They will then use these shots for things like the main pictures on their blogs.

Another reason why purikura books have gone out of fashion is that these days young women use purikura not to be exchanged with friends, but as both proof and confirmation of their appearance.  One young woman detailed that if she is having a good hair or makeup day, she wants to record it for posterity with a purikura.  Another said it is her way of checking how she looks to other people.

There is a bit of a gender divide however, in terms of who approves the ability of purikura to alter one’s look.  Young men were also surveyed regarding purikura habits, and more than half of them said that they were against their female contemporaries using a multitude of functions to alter their appearance.  As one guy put it, “Sometimes they come out cuter on the sticker, but there’s nothing like the real thing.”